Terramar

Sunday, August 09, 2009

Saturday 08.08.09

Saturday @6:45am. Looks weak and scattered.
Dave showed in the lot and I changed the fin on my big stick.
Went from a stock 10" ( it's a a 10'3'board,the yellow ) to a stock 8".
Funny but the paddle out was not as easy as it looked to be. No one else was out cuz it was looking like no waves. After a 15 min. wait a set of Souths came through and met some WNW (?) wind swell and bam, I'm in the peak and get a screamin left.
The board is amazingly more responsive cause of the fin change, and I am moving her around like never before. Got a couple more lefts and a right, David did the same.
The sun appeared,the crowds appeared,the tide appeared, the waves and us disappeared.

As I write, the Sunday morning coffee is almost done and I'm headed back out to rinse and repeat ( if possible ).

surf on....

No comments: