Terramar

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Finer still ! ! !


Friday it was Jason and I again.... I was hoping for less crowds and instead of thinking about who I don't want to hit, maybe I could concentrate on my board, myself and dancing on the WAVE.

Bingo. Got what I wanted and so did Jason
We each had some very good ones and it was sweet.
I love surfing sunsets and the last two didn't let us down.
Surfing with my son is always so fulfilling. I hope to do this until I'm gone from this earth

I am feeling more"normal" again.
It's been a awhile.
For sure it has been awhile.

Saturday's AM dawn patrol was great.
I got 2 GREAT waves ! !
Just the ones I hoped would show... fat, fast, and outside every one else.
As I was riding the sweet spot on best of those, I saw Alita, sitting on the shoulder way in front of me, with a pretty big " nice one Bill" grin on her face ...... like it, and, as I continued, some one else who was facing me as I was coming down the line fast was taking pretend camera shots of me, ya know?
I like it like that sometimes I need that once in awhile, not always but once in awhile its really good to get that stuff from your peers.

Sunday afternoon I got a couple in the super hot 100 degree weather and nice refreshing glass.
What a great week of surfing ! ! ! !

I have had at least 10 sessions in a row without missing any days....


I am just about back to good! I am so close now !
Thank God, family, and friends for that.
THANK YOU
! ! !

2 comments:

twin said...

good stuff!

rspeer said...

I appreciate your sense of gratitude, thanks for sharing your struggle