Surfing Terramar
Terramar, stoke, and a journey back to good.
Terramar
Monday, August 24, 2009
Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!
Monday Swell.........................Monday garden.
This swell has been nice. This swell has aloha.
"THE SOUTH" is here alright, though it does require patience, at least when Surfing Terra Mar. Since my set back I have only dreamed of dropping down big faces, in warm water, but in the last month my dreams have come true. I can. I do. I will. Made some good drops today. Got a couple of nice shoulders. My shoulders and back are sore , but in a good way.
This is what surfing is about for me and some of my closest friends.
Slipping through an all encompassing, silky,blue green warmth. Life everywhere around you.
All the senses are on full alert,and in full use, every one of 'em.
Sight, smell, touch, taste. Sound, thought, cunning. Being a hunter,being social, being primal, competition, fear, elation, exhilaration.
Joy, envy, pride,anticipation,etc. etc fill in the rest.
It just goes on and on if you let it.
It is so amazing.
I know this is very, well ,
very something
that may be thought of as over the top.
You know what though, it's not. It is exactly that and much more.
It is the most amazing of things. To receive this gift is the best thing.
I love the stoke. The ocean and it's power and beauty.
I am lost in it.
I am found in it.
surf on
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About Me
Bill
I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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Finer still ! ! !
I usually don't whine....
Tuesday swell so, so.........but
Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!
Sunday night....... not too shabby
Sunday AM was better
S-a-tur-day ...... night !
Mornin' there Guillermo
Guillermo may be visiting on Saturday
Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09
Saturday 08.08.09
Was surfing last night any good?
Reef was OK
Weekend ( post South Swell ) in Review 8.1.09
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