Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!

Monday Swell.........................Monday garden.

This swell has been nice. This swell has aloha.

"THE SOUTH" is here alright, though it does require patience, at least when Surfing Terra Mar. Since my set back I have only dreamed of dropping down big faces, in warm water, but in the last month my dreams have come true. I can. I do. I will. Made some good drops today. Got a couple of nice shoulders. My shoulders and back are sore , but in a good way.
This is what surfing is about for me and some of my closest friends.
Slipping through an all encompassing, silky,blue green warmth. Life everywhere around you.
All the senses are on full alert,and in full use, every one of 'em.
Sight, smell, touch, taste. Sound, thought, cunning. Being a hunter,being social, being primal, competition, fear, elation, exhilaration.
Joy, envy, pride,anticipation,etc. etc fill in the rest.
It just goes on and on if you let it.
It is so amazing.
I know this is very, well ,very something that may be thought of as over the top.
You know what though, it's not. It is exactly that and much more.
It is the most amazing of things. To receive this gift is the best thing.

I love the stoke. The ocean and it's power and beauty.

I am lost in it.
I am found in it.

surf on