Surfing Terramar
Terramar, stoke, and a journey back to good.
Terramar
Friday, August 07, 2009
Was surfing last night any good?
( OK,Picture is not last night,but Jason showing nice form! )
The original blog name 5 years ago was " surfing with my son."
"We" totally learned this together almost lock step. We both have a lifetime of surfing to do, and learn about.
We went out last evening, walked down to the reef and paddled into what were the weirdest waves I have been in, in awhile. Lots of peaks, then disappearing peaks, some with shoulder, some without. Jason was more comfortable than I, as he was getting decent length of ride on either board (we switch). In several waves, I would get up and not stay in front of the wave enough, lose momentum, then the wave would pass under me and vanish.
That is a very frustrating wave for me.
When I do get the chance to surf with my son, which is not that often anymore, I like to surf well.
I like him to see me surf well for a lot of reasons, as a father would, specifically because of the circumstances of the last 2 years and my rather miraculous recovery and return to the ocean.
I remember 1 year ago, post surgical nightmare, bobbing in the ocean with my son, still unable to stand up, and getting really frustrated. I remember wanting to get a single wave so bad.
I remember looking around and
seeing
my son want me to just get a nice, single wave.
I then DID get up, on a wave, on my own.......
for him
. It was when I realized I wanted it more For him, more than for myself, I was able to go through the pain, and just do it.
It was one of the single, most proud moments of my life.
From that point we ( family, friends, and I ) realized I could heal
and make a run at getting back to good !
So, was surfing last night any good?
No, surfing last night,
with Jason
, was GREAT ! !
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About Me
Bill
I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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Finer still ! ! !
I usually don't whine....
Tuesday swell so, so.........but
Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!
Sunday night....... not too shabby
Sunday AM was better
S-a-tur-day ...... night !
Mornin' there Guillermo
Guillermo may be visiting on Saturday
Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09
Saturday 08.08.09
Was surfing last night any good?
Reef was OK
Weekend ( post South Swell ) in Review 8.1.09
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