Terramar

Friday, August 07, 2009

Was surfing last night any good?


( OK,Picture is not last night,but Jason showing nice form! )
The original blog name 5 years ago was " surfing with my son."
"We" totally learned this together almost lock step. We both have a lifetime of surfing to do, and learn about.
We went out last evening, walked down to the reef and paddled into what were the weirdest waves I have been in, in awhile. Lots of peaks, then disappearing peaks, some with shoulder, some without. Jason was more comfortable than I, as he was getting decent length of ride on either board (we switch). In several waves, I would get up and not stay in front of the wave enough, lose momentum, then the wave would pass under me and vanish.
That is a very frustrating wave for me.
When I do get the chance to surf with my son, which is not that often anymore, I like to surf well.
I like him to see me surf well for a lot of reasons, as a father would, specifically because of the circumstances of the last 2 years and my rather miraculous recovery and return to the ocean.
I remember 1 year ago, post surgical nightmare, bobbing in the ocean with my son, still unable to stand up, and getting really frustrated. I remember wanting to get a single wave so bad.
I remember looking around and seeing my son want me to just get a nice, single wave.
I then DID get up, on a wave, on my own....... for him. It was when I realized I wanted it more For him, more than for myself, I was able to go through the pain, and just do it.
It was one of the single, most proud moments of my life.
From that point we ( family, friends, and I ) realized I could heal
and make a run at getting back to good !
So, was surfing last night any good?
No, surfing last night, with Jason, was GREAT ! !

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