As promised a return to the reef for Sunday PM.
As I was ready to paddle out a large 7 wave outside set came crashing in. It was impressive.
Stoked, I got on the board and put myself to the far south of the break hoping to avoid the 4-5 person take offs on the left side of the peak.
After 15 minuets an outside set came,each wave bigger and breaking 5 yards further out than it's predecessor. On the 4th or 5th I turned and picked up a peak and a right. Several people on the inside but I stayed high and fast and the shoulder held.
Having replaced the 10' Standard FU fin with Daves 7" cutaway and side bites, the board was much more responsive than usual but still held me in on the face of some of the more powerful rides. I am really liking the different fin config's.
My right tonight was borderline epic and
I'm a happy boy ....
Surf on...... enjoy this nice swell and the warm ocean ! !
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
1 comment:
Hi Bill! Glad you stopped by so I could find your blog. I am enjoying it. I like your story. I am glad you are doing great now.
Post a Comment