I usually don't whine....but the crowds were a bit heavy today.
The swell improved as predicted....
I have got into a great forecaster by the way.
http://socalforecast.blogspot.com/
Big fatties were rolling in from the outside again, but this time there were more spots showing than just the reef. Unfortunately, there were a lot of short boarders, long boarders, body boarders, and sups all mixed in and spread wide.
All of these working the same spot, when there are pretty good sized outside sets sweeping through,just doesn't work well.
My son was there and that was a treat. WE shared boards and both got a couple of very good rides.I really enjoy seeing him get some, as I know he does for his old dad. Although I do admit, when I surf, I don't feel old at all. I feel like I'm a kid for sure.
I wish I didn't have to spend the majority of this day dodging sponges and insiders.
This is about stoke and stoked I am.
The waves were, well , some of 'em were epic.
The water quality and temp were epic.
Weather epic.
Friends and family, yep, epic.
Sweet ! !
Surf on
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Sometimes you can get yourself in the mood to handle a crowd, but sometimes you can't.
I often look around and want to yell, "Where were you fair-weather kooks when it was cold, gray and onshore in the middle of January?!"
This weekend is going to be a zoo, but I'm ready. I'm just going to float around, be patient and try to enjoy the simple act of being in the ocean.
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