Surfing Terramar
Terramar, stoke, and a journey back to good.
Terramar
Saturday, August 22, 2009
S-a-tur-day ...... night !
Sat. night THE SOUTH swell shows up, as well as some blossoms at home.
Sat morn all dressed up and no where to surf.
Hopes were high but no real swell except for a very blown, wall-o-junk at Tammy, with 20 surfers all not on it, but trying.
W E N T H O M E
I almost NEVER GO HOME...
Nice day with Laurie and Lori and Geila. Saw Jason at work, which gives me pleasure to see my son working his way into his own life.
Went back out at 5pm and the swell was showing much better now. Dave and I had a great exercise, caught a few good keepers each, meeting out there @ 6 Sun morn.
IF THE WIND STAYS AWAY
IT'S GONNA BE GOOD ! ! !
Stoke on ! ....
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About Me
Bill
I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
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Finer still ! ! !
I usually don't whine....
Tuesday swell so, so.........but
Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!
Sunday night....... not too shabby
Sunday AM was better
S-a-tur-day ...... night !
Mornin' there Guillermo
Guillermo may be visiting on Saturday
Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09
Saturday 08.08.09
Was surfing last night any good?
Reef was OK
Weekend ( post South Swell ) in Review 8.1.09
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