the water/weather was super fine. Got calls from both surf buddies saying go, although with slightly different reports. I have been out 5 days in a row and Im sore.I cannot resist it.
Brought a different board, and(after trying out a cutaway fin on the big board),it took me a few waves to get into any kinda of grove. We gort some rides in the bright sun and warm glass. THE highlight was watching Pat in the Hat take a 8 foot straight down, late take off. It was just epic really. He didnt make the bottom turn but that was just a HELL DROP, one I appreciate. He came out fine, maybe some parts were bruised, but man what a sight. I didn't want to get out of the water last eve.
It is just so fine right now, so fine. I am hoping for a repeat and in trunks in the water at sundown and beyond Maybe some of that cosmic canopy action, after the sun sinks below the horizon. Maybe...when the sky looks like this
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