Surfing Terramar
Terramar, stoke, and a journey back to good.
Terramar
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Mornin' there Guillermo
Woke up ...got outta bed ...
looked out the window and scratched my head.....
Took a peek at the flowers... and had a cup.....
and looking up........ I noticed I was late
Headed out... to surf the glass...
ran with my board... across the grass....
Flopped into the sea..... all warm and green....
Got my first wave .....and went into a dream....
Ahhhhhhhhhhh......Ahhhhhhhh Ahhhhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahhhhh Ahhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh
Ahhhhha Ahhhhh Ahhhhhhhhhhh
OK whatever that eh?
Spent 3 hours in, and saw the first swell from Guillermo.
Maybe go back for more if the wind stays off.
Sunday will be good too....
Maybe Jason and Emily will show up.
Nice, Nice, Nice
surf on...
1 comment:
Toddy
said...
surf on
8:19 AM
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About Me
Bill
I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
View my complete profile
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Finer still ! ! !
I usually don't whine....
Tuesday swell so, so.........but
Monday , more, more please. Thank you !!!
Sunday night....... not too shabby
Sunday AM was better
S-a-tur-day ...... night !
Mornin' there Guillermo
Guillermo may be visiting on Saturday
Wax, rinse, repeat. Sun 08.09.09
Saturday 08.08.09
Was surfing last night any good?
Reef was OK
Weekend ( post South Swell ) in Review 8.1.09
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