Surf, surf ,and surfy surf.

Today's DP was nice, but slow. My in Laws, whom I love dearly, were in town and I didn't want to spend too much time away this morning and didn't.
In at 6am TRUNKS, out at 8 a little on the cool side.
4 -6waves
I did get "vague de la journée", so I was told.
A nice, outside solo that Aleta and I both paddled for, smiling.
She goes left I go right.
Thought I might get get frog housed ( LoL )- so I dug my right arm into the face and it slowed me, too much, probably.
Ahhh oh wel, it still was a great ride and got the compliments that I evidently (and secretly) need.
When they come it DOES, feel good.

Was out last Wednesday Pm after work and that was good too.
I actually had some really long shouldered lefts and was moving the big stick around pretty well for me.
Saw a new friend I have made at Terramar whom I haven't seen in awhile.
Kyle was injured about 2 months ago during some big surf when a ditched board cut his calf, literally right to the bone, for about what looks to be 9 inches or so. He took 3 layers of stitches and 2 months recovery, because someone let loose their board in a large set.
I really try to hold on these days. I learned a good lesson from his misfortune.
It was good to see him okay and back in the water again.
I know the feeling of being forced out of the water for periods of time too.
Kyle makes some super fine wood boards check this out http://karmasurfboards.com/home

SURFING is the LIFE for me

surf on ...