STOKED ? Uh huh.......

My son has been gettin 2-a-days this week
and I saw him surfing well last night.

Tonight it was all
BiG WaVeS
glassy,clear warmish, but still refreshing waters
warm air
under cosmic evening skies
full moon
sunsets
wisps of clouds and thunder heads off in the eastern skies

STOKED

Things CAN and WILL change or weekend update

Saturday 0700...trunks :)
it was for told a perfect glassy morning, but
Saturday was peaky and weird where I was ( houses)
Got a few... then paddled to "left overs" at the reef.

Very crowded.
I did have some leftovers( far left hand corner slightly inside) got full and split....
Saw Chuck and others doing so much better that I
at the inside houses...typical really.

So...................................
I went back at 1:30pm in broad daylight I walked to the reef.
Everyone was fixed on the Lefts from yellows and
I went south for the rights

and rights I HAD
I truly had an overhead heart-thumper right that I though might get me a stand up barrel....not quite but man o man .. a real ripper
got several more good quality sled rides and got out in under 1 1/2 hours completely satisfied and done. Nice !
SUNDAY ...0600
same thing really... no "left overs at the" reef
did have some nice talk and got a couple 3 good rides with
some buddies

When I went to take my shot of the day for this blog/diary.....
I got this surprise and realization
WHO DAT ? ! ?

DAT ...BILL ! ! !
Nice....... I will go into how great it is having some friends while surfing

Bill ............"I know what you saw tonight"

I admit...
I saw it... I felt it...
a deep swell hiding under the high tide,
HIDING into the DARK hours
It will show with the morning glass and bring the warmth with it...

weird on.....

Waiting for Summer

I may have missed a lot in life for waiting for something better to happen..
After that whole thing a few years back, I hope to not spend time waiting for any thing better.
I have learned important things from that.
Today I went out @ 730am .
There was no sun.
There was a cool, if not cold breeze blowing.
There was only gray and degrees of black and white.
The water temp dropped some 5-8 degrees
since last Monday night. ( it was 69 here that night)
It was like a March Morning with NW wind swell and chop
As usual I wore my trunks to the beach this morning.
I haven't had a wetsuit on since...???..summer..??
I am not putting on a wetsuit until it is Winter... PERIOD.
My neighbor John and I were virtually the only ones in.
Caught a few., froze my body aches away, which I do like.
I am inland about 8 miles.
Went home to blues skies and the most beautiful Summer Things I can imagine
At least I got Summer at home now.






I am not waiting for Summer at the beach.