Saturday 0700...trunks :)
it was for told a perfect glassy morning, but
Saturday was peaky and weird where I was ( houses)
Got a few... then paddled to "left overs" at the reef.
Very crowded.
I did have some leftovers( far left hand corner slightly inside) got full and split....
Saw Chuck and others doing so much better that I
at the inside houses...typical really.
So...................................
I went back at 1:30pm in broad daylight I walked to the reef.
Everyone was fixed on the Lefts from yellows and
I went south for the rights
and rights I HAD
I truly had an overhead heart-thumper right that I though might get me a stand up barrel....not quite but man o man .. a real ripper
got several more good quality sled rides and got out in under 1 1/2 hours completely satisfied and done. Nice !
SUNDAY ...0600
same thing really... no "left overs at the" reef
did have some nice talk and got a couple 3 good rides with
some buddies
When I went to take my shot of the day for this blog/diary.....
I got this surprise and realization
WHO DAT ? ! ?
DAT ...BILL ! ! !
Nice....... I will go into how great it is having some friends while surfing
1 comment:
Nice shots!
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