I admit...I saw it... I felt it...
a deep swell hiding under the high tide,
HIDING into the DARK hours
It will show with the morning glass and bring the warmth with it...
weird on.....
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About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
Popular Posts
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After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold ... -
This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday. Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son... -
After Tuesdays stoke and the realization of why work seems soooo hard to me now ( my lack of after work surfing), I decided for a repeat bli...
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Surfing is getting more relaxed these days. I'm surfing better. Better than before the surgical disaster. A lot of that has to do with 2... -
Got a few waves out there Saturday, the first of 5 days off work. It was good it's always good.
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This year has seen not much of any thing from the winter waves I thought would have been here by now. Last "year"(2012) I recall b...
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Friday night and Saturday Morning were good. PM surfing was with my son. It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son. JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+N...
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The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired. Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out ...
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