Wow.... just wow

Surfing after work with my son.
A few good friends .
Pure glass.

Warm AND cool water.
Trunks, so water flowing all over me as I like it.
Shoulder to head high set peaks.
A-frame waves where right shoulders would form up and then scream along for 25 yards plus.
Incredible skies with thunder heads partially lite up.
Spacey, spatters of little puffs spread out in different patterns across the sky.
Warm air
AMAZING SUNSET.

And

I have never done on a surfboard what I was able to do this night.

Or

maybe I should say that for the first time,
I was able to do everything I WANTED TO DO on a wave, without falter !
After 8 years I felt I could finally surf !

Drop turns with nothin" but rail in the water
>to lip smack @ 11 o'clock
>to cut back
> to up to 3/4 to the top of the wave
> to hand digs into the wall to slow it down
> to water on my back
>to perfect trim line
> to cross stepping up to nose rides for 25-50 yard faces moving at a good clip......

I did this beautiful thing, on two consecutive waves.
FINALLY
Amazing

I am humbled that I might experience this.

My son and friends had great rides too.

Thank you God, family, friends, and mother ocean for the chance.

surf on....

Yeah it's thumpin' and everyone knows it!

So I won't bore you or myself with the less than spectacular results of my morning session.
Got the normal ( he's insane ) looks for being in trunks. No matter.
Funny really how it upsets the apple cart to a degree.
I do enjoy surfing in the cold. It makes me feel good.
The REEF had occasional and thunderous sets roar through.
2 FOOT OVERHEAD tubes chasing them down and catching up with many.
Saw a lot of boards flying like pick-up sticks.
I was wishing I was there, just waiting for a wave to myself.
I saw a dozen empty big waves go through (right after a few clean ups).
This will be my strategy tomorrow morning.

Enjoy the swell....I will give it my best !

Of note,
This Monday, Laurie and I are going to fly to S.F., then drive the coast
up to the Canadian border.
Just myself, Laurie, and a fast convertible.......

surf on

Today was Great ?

Yes it was !

I got 2 very long nose rides from outside into
2 feet of
Cool
Clear
Glassy water
Faces all the way in.

Said hi to some friends.

and watched some of them surf the same with equal stoke.

I Met 2 new surfers today, Gordon and Greg.
It always catches me off guard in a pleasing way when someone who reads this blog recognizes me.
I get somewhat embarrassed by this, as this is really more of a diary/journal than a public offering.
I have met more good people in this 200 yard streytch of water in 8 years than I have met in my entire 54 years of life.
Plus got this swell shirt from Jim...
where the fine print really describes the whole deal.


pretty much says it all.


THANKS SQUAT !
To quote a likely contender for 1st place in the world tour
this year, Andy Irons,
"Why do I surf?
Because I am always a better man when I get out."
Of course today was great!
Here's hoping your surf was as GREAT too !!

There were no waves......................................................... I caught at least 15 in an hour

Only 1 other long boarder out there at 1230pm this Sunday....
mystery fog and cool waters keeping the crowds away ....
I get waist high wave after wave into 2 or 3 feet of water on the big Slickenmeyer.
It was very VERY nice.... just what the Doctor ordered
Got some health issues again
this surf today sure
beats sitting around grinding on that kinda crap.