Like a kid in the Candy Store

is how I was described surfing on Saturday by a friend ...
What a delight !
Saturday I got there for the (pre)dawn patrol thing., mostly driven from the need to surf and the impending super high tide swing early in the AM.
A good surfer, Terry, always seems to be the first out at the reef, and this time I got an invite to go with him and another of his friend at dark O'clock.
In ALL my time surfing I have never paddled out to that wave with no one already there or paddling in front of me.
That in itself was a like a kid walking into a candy store with just some friends and no one else. It wasn't spectacular conditions or waves but having that place in the warm glassy solitude is a treat. Got a few nice rides and some welcomed tips for catching that particular wave. BIG GRIN BILL, in the water, atleast that's what I feel like.
Sunday I slept in til 6am and missed out on the solo paddle out, but did arrive back at the reef around 645. Once again the vibe was good, some sets showed up and I got a few reef waves.
STOKED
Pat showed up around 0830 and just plopped right into the pit on the wave-o-the-day to my inside right. I backed off and he got such a great ride.
Surfing is so good for me, us, well most of us.
It is so good to be a little kid at 54
surf on...