What I like about ..............this weeks surf

Was getting my ass kicked over and over for no apparent reason other than to remind me that

I have a long way to go
a huh huh

Sound weird ?

Last Saturday I went out and I got about 12-15 waves in 40 minutes
Easter Sunday I went out and I got about 1-2 waves in 40 minutes
and
watched the reef going off in the distance.
Thursday went out with Pat and Dave in the PM
Yeah too high tide but......
I'm catching rails, cart-wheeling off the front of the board on jacking high tiders, falling,
did a truly epic pearl virtually sinking my whole 10'3" big board and my face.
etc.etc
Today, Friday, I take the day off to hang with Laurie on her birthday,
but sneak out for a 0600 am surf.
I paddle out reluctantly(peaky close and soupy on the inside)
and it's a kinda tough paddle.
I finally get outside with only 1 other....Stewart.
I got one actual wave right about then, the rest of it was another lesson in humility.
Paddled for many a shoulder/head high peak caught 3 really.Those 3 were jacking so high by the time I could descend that my 10'3" board was more like a diving board
with nothing but air under 8' of it and the water about 6' straight down.
They weren't floaters, you need water/air mix for that.
They were like trying to fly a surfboard, oh, and that doesn't work.
The last one of "those" was directly in front of 2 who were paddling out and it must have been pretty good from their surface level view point. I heard the F*ck Yeah DUDE all the way down and boom.....really thought I was gonna snap the board in half on that.
Catch in some fast white water, get out and high tail it to the truck.
Up on the cliff a surf bud, Mike, just says

"Don't feel bad"

Ha ha Mike
I don't
This is what I like
cartwheel on
fly on
drop on
pearl on
surf on
surf on
Keep On