What I like about

this morning was that I went in to it with a mission.
A mission to go in no matter what the conditions were.
No waves no matter I'll just paddle my big board, ya know, get strong. Uh Huh
I got in at 0600 and there were only surfers at the reef, or to put it another way, nobody was where I was going to surf, it just looked like so much suckage.
I didn't really give that notion much of a nod, I just talked to a COP for 5 minutes while suiting up,?
stretched
and went in and surfed.(no cramps either, after 2 weeks of Magnesium and supplements+ stretching that damn right leg of)
SO Hands clasped and relaxed behind my back, no slack jawing on the take off/pop ups, no squatting...
I am working on developing a style ? > ! !!? or SoMe KINda Style.
Anywho I surfed alone for 40 minutes AND GOT 12-15 WAVES! !
I KNOW ! !
YEP !
Then the swell started to show and sets of head highs rolled into the south reef (Igor's)
I think I got into 1 more decent wave after a few friends came out.
Solitude and flying across the top of the water...
That's what I like about
this morning.







surf on