all kidding aside
the last week of surfing has shaken my confidence level to the ground.
Today I went at about 1000 AM to try to get the tide at the right point.
Trunks,sunny, a few peaks and shoulders starting to show with minimal wind and "almost" glassy conditions....nice
I got a couple rides that were cool...
however
I got a few that weren't cool at all.
again
FOR THE 4TH DAY NOW
superlative pearling,
pitches,
side-o-the-face smack downs,wondering if I'm gonna drive my head thru the board kinda shit.
Of course, all while in the presence of my SUPER alter ego,
3 surfers whom I respect greatly, Ted, mike, and Kyle
and GOD ALMIGHTY.
Thankfully they were the only people out I knew.
My head is still ringing a bit from one super bitch slap I took.
JUST BITCH SLAPPED !
I have cartwheeled, pearled, been tossed over, caught rails, floated into 6 feet of air then free fallen on the board straight down to the bottom,
more in 4 days
than I have in...well, what seems to be 4 years.
Of course that doesn't count the major
medical, life threatening,
cosmic BITCH SLAP of 3.2 years ago,
that lasted, in earnest, for 3 months and dragged on for,
well....
Alrighty then...
I guess, considering,I have hope eternal.
I'm still very stoked....
Yes I am ! !
I am.
Surf on.
4 comments:
Every time I take a lay-off because of work, schedule, conditions or whatever...every time I get back int eh water, even if it's just a couple weeks on... I feel like I'm made of lead, like my rails are my enemy, like I'm just learning, all over again. It's some sort of wonderful thing to never really get a handle on something. To always, no matter what, be at the mercy of the situation. Amen.
Bill,
the swell was weird and surfing in front of the stack on Saturday and in front of Ted's house on Sunday I saw a lot of guys go over the falls. I got worked pretty good on Saturday - Paul said "I received a free chiropractic adjustment" . That is why I like the reef when it is breaking -- always a shoulder to make -- not a lot of good shoulders over the weekend but there were a few that made the paddle out worth it. c - ya -- OH BTW, Chuck was out there too Sunday morning having a blast.
Nice to know I'm not alone in this.
Thanks for the support Brotha's
surf on...
Surfing itself have great fun and entertainment.surfing is kind of a never ending thing I imagine..Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, just like a test of heavens.
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