Wednesday, January 09, 2013
Tuesday, January 08, 2013
Subjectivity again #3.2013
Sunday was so different than just the day before.
Less wave, less sun, less glass.
Light rain , more breeze and only 2 besides myself.
Terry and I headed to the reef alone leaving a couple dawn patrol's on the cliff who were presumably headed home due to prevailing poor conditions. Just as we were getting in, one of the 2 we left behind was running towards us down the beach.
I was stoked .
Only 3 at the reef and there were actually a few set waves to be had.
I had hopes of getting some of the reef's lefts, un-molested.
That wouldn't really happen.
I would reef-psych myself once more. ( It happens about 70% of the time for me at that spot )
Started out with a couple rights that were good, but not like the lefts. Terry, and Deebs got the lefts.
To this day that wave confounds me. I can never really tell where it is gonna break and thus have a hard time taking off, while others are paddling. By the time I was ready to take the building swells left side offerings, 7or so people were in the line up, and that sometimes is enough for me to shy up on that break. Got an abort left and pulled out as others were in front of me.
Got a decent ride in and called it a morning.
Ahhhh the reef....
oh yeah
Lately my stuff has begun to H U R T.
After all the shit I went through, it seemed I could always say, at least my back came out OK.
waaaaah
bullshit
Less wave, less sun, less glass.
Light rain , more breeze and only 2 besides myself.
Terry and I headed to the reef alone leaving a couple dawn patrol's on the cliff who were presumably headed home due to prevailing poor conditions. Just as we were getting in, one of the 2 we left behind was running towards us down the beach.
I was stoked .
Only 3 at the reef and there were actually a few set waves to be had.
I had hopes of getting some of the reef's lefts, un-molested.
That wouldn't really happen.
I would reef-psych myself once more. ( It happens about 70% of the time for me at that spot )
Started out with a couple rights that were good, but not like the lefts. Terry, and Deebs got the lefts.
To this day that wave confounds me. I can never really tell where it is gonna break and thus have a hard time taking off, while others are paddling. By the time I was ready to take the building swells left side offerings, 7or so people were in the line up, and that sometimes is enough for me to shy up on that break. Got an abort left and pulled out as others were in front of me.
Got a decent ride in and called it a morning.
Ahhhh the reef....
oh yeah
Lately my stuff has begun to H U R T.
After all the shit I went through, it seemed I could always say, at least my back came out OK.
waaaaah
bullshit
Sunday, January 06, 2013
Alright... all rights
Got a couple nice rights Saturday for the # 2 surf of the new year.
Started out at houses with just a couple of closer surf mates. Dawn patrolers.
Cold, super clear.Clean waves
Saw some good surfing and caught a few good ones with a standout right, that went on for.... well for
just the right amount. Things got glassey at about 730 and that made for some good rides.
I mean to surf my own game to a degree.
I am looking for rights these days.
This came as a revelation over time as for the most part, Terramar, and the reef, are lefts.
I think with some new sand that maybe that has changed a bit.
Got out and soaked in a hot tub for half an hour, stretching all the bad stuff.
Saturday, January 05, 2013
Happy New Year 1.1.13 #1
#1 2013
Early at 6 am ,Tim , a veteran on dawn patrol, with whom have become more friendly with as of late, is the only one there, oh yeah, Val was asleep in her truck. As I'm getting ready to get out and suit up, he pulls up and says he's out and no one is here cuz its cold and not looking to good.
I decide to stay because I need a good surf, and expected a good surf and WANTED a good surf on the first day of the year 2013.
Glad I stayed.
Shared a paddle out with Mike and Terry I believe,into some surprising waves that gave a few of us some really nice rides.
SUPER COLD AIR though.
I did nearly freeze after getting out though.
Feet were just like ice blocks. Not so much in the warm 58 degree water, but on the 40 degree cement
Was worth it..
Oh
THE Holidays
In late fall early winter 2012 there has been a run of pretty good surf at little Terramar.
Wow was Thanksgiving day great ! ! Dawn patrol was incredible with just a couple real rides for me but oh yeah it was good. Nasty paddle outs, big fat waves,ones with speed way out side. A couple of friends out and that was all.
Wow the weekend after Thanksgiving was GREAT.
Ditto Big Ditto Fat Ditto Speedy too.
Saw some great launches, amazing drops, had some great launches amazing drops and super big walling up shoulders going right. Just a few out again in the early morning.
Very stoked
Then very C O L D. But nice waves when I wanted.
Had to put on a wet suit in the 2nd week of December. I thought I might make it through December in trunks but nope.
Here am I looking FORWARD to a hell of a lot more surfing .
more subjectivity coming
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