Saturday, January 05, 2013
Happy New Year 1.1.13 #1
#1 2013
Early at 6 am ,Tim , a veteran on dawn patrol, with whom have become more friendly with as of late, is the only one there, oh yeah, Val was asleep in her truck. As I'm getting ready to get out and suit up, he pulls up and says he's out and no one is here cuz its cold and not looking to good.I decide to stay because I need a good surf, and expected a good surf and WANTED a good surf on the first day of the year 2013.
Glad I stayed.
Shared a paddle out with Mike and Terry I believe,into some surprising waves that gave a few of us some really nice rides.
SUPER COLD AIR though.
I did nearly freeze after getting out though.
Feet were just like ice blocks. Not so much in the warm 58 degree water, but on the 40 degree cement
Was worth it..
Oh
THE Holidays
In late fall early winter 2012 there has been a run of pretty good surf at little Terramar.
Wow was Thanksgiving day great ! ! Dawn patrol was incredible with just a couple real rides for me but oh yeah it was good. Nasty paddle outs, big fat waves,ones with speed way out side. A couple of friends out and that was all.
Wow the weekend after Thanksgiving was GREAT.
Ditto Big Ditto Fat Ditto Speedy too.
Saw some great launches, amazing drops, had some great launches amazing drops and super big walling up shoulders going right. Just a few out again in the early morning.
Very stoked
Then very C O L D. But nice waves when I wanted.
Had to put on a wet suit in the 2nd week of December. I thought I might make it through December in trunks but nope.
Here am I looking FORWARD to a hell of a lot more surfing .
more subjectivity coming
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment