Sunday was so different than just the day before.
Less wave, less sun, less glass.
Light rain , more breeze and only 2 besides myself.
Terry and I headed to the reef alone leaving a couple dawn patrol's on the cliff who were presumably headed home due to prevailing poor conditions. Just as we were getting in, one of the 2 we left behind was running towards us down the beach.
I was stoked .
Only 3 at the reef and there were actually a few set waves to be had.
I had hopes of getting some of the reef's lefts, un-molested.
That wouldn't really happen.
I would reef-psych myself once more. ( It happens about 70% of the time for me at that spot )
Started out with a couple rights that were good, but not like the lefts. Terry, and Deebs got the lefts.
To this day that wave confounds me. I can never really tell where it is gonna break and thus have a hard time taking off, while others are paddling. By the time I was ready to take the building swells left side offerings, 7or so people were in the line up, and that sometimes is enough for me to shy up on that break. Got an abort left and pulled out as others were in front of me.
Got a decent ride in and called it a morning.
Ahhhh the reef....
oh yeah
Lately my stuff has begun to H U R T.
After all the shit I went through, it seemed I could always say, at least my back came out OK.
waaaaah
bullshit
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