Sunday, March 31, 2013
March ( 23 n' 24) non madness #17 and #18
I am b logging back wards a week.
I remember being very pleasantly surprised in the amount of smallerish (waist high) waves that I was able to get.
I am learning how to get into waves a little better.
I did not surf after work on any days that week or the week following. I let myself down there. I shoulda, woulda, couldaand didnt.
Even after promising myself that I would.
Non the less, Surf 2013 # 17 was good, and it made me happy.
The following #18 wasn't quite as good, more people competing for lines, ah well such is surfing...
Sunday, March 17, 2013
Saint Patrick's Day
#16 Sunday ( no Saturday )
Wow I have only been out 16 times in 2013 ? ! ?
Maybe that's why I am in the state I'm in, oh well I can fix that.
Today's Dawn patrol, got there a wee bit late, 0630Am I felt like it was already lunch time
celebrating with my girl last night at 333 in Oceanside, seaside by the pier .
Mmmmm Calamari, Sushi rolls and
the SUPER MARTINI'S 333 is famous for.
A sour kiss= chipotle pineapple monin, cranberry juice,Grapefruit Vodka, a stiff lime foam .
and a Myer Lemon Drop Martini.
Toady's waves were on the smaller side but I got a few.
Nicer rights for me. Good one for others. Just didn't get a lot .
Had Fun it was soooo gooood to get wet, as it always is.
I did get a good nod from a GREAT SURFER there.
he said I was developing some style. He is right ( seems strange to say )I have seen changes in my surfing, subtle but some style coming thru.
That was really cool to hear.
Over the last month I have noticed very small improvements,
I was hoping to hear a little affirmation and just when I really needed it ....boom !
Promising myself to get out after work 2 times this work week and
Wow I have only been out 16 times in 2013 ? ! ?
Maybe that's why I am in the state I'm in, oh well I can fix that.
Today's Dawn patrol, got there a wee bit late, 0630Am I felt like it was already lunch time
celebrating with my girl last night at 333 in Oceanside, seaside by the pier .
Mmmmm Calamari, Sushi rolls and
the SUPER MARTINI'S 333 is famous for.
A sour kiss= chipotle pineapple monin, cranberry juice,Grapefruit Vodka, a stiff lime foam .
and a Myer Lemon Drop Martini.
Toady's waves were on the smaller side but I got a few.
Nicer rights for me. Good one for others. Just didn't get a lot .
Had Fun it was soooo gooood to get wet, as it always is.
I did get a good nod from a GREAT SURFER there.
he said I was developing some style. He is right ( seems strange to say )I have seen changes in my surfing, subtle but some style coming thru.
That was really cool to hear.
Over the last month I have noticed very small improvements,
I was hoping to hear a little affirmation and just when I really needed it ....boom !
Promising myself to get out after work 2 times this work week and
I'm gonna.
Period
Stoked ! !
L8Ts
Sunday, March 10, 2013
Sunday re-visited and ode to daylight savings
# 15 materializes after much adu and inter cranium chaos.
This mornings failure to launch off the cliff and into the water, WAS mostly due to atmospheric and oceanic conditions, (my head trippin), BUT
The wind is just starting and I head off in my spring suit alone. Get a few junked up waves then ride in and remove the spring suit and go back in, in trunks.
I get a few more in the chilly water but am renewed in the act of surfing without any wet suit .
It is so important for me to feel the water envelop me. To have that and the sun surround me simply turns me on.
This mornings failure to launch off the cliff and into the water, WAS mostly due to atmospheric and oceanic conditions, (my head trippin), BUT
I wander back out to Terramar @ 12 noon.
It is so important for me to feel the water envelop me. To have that and the sun surround me simply turns me on.
On an even brighter note
IT"S DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME
This means I may survive myself !
If I cant get out just 2-3 days after work each week,
I might make it through another year !
STOKED ! ! ! ! !
No Saturday and NO SUNDAY !
# non-15
Well not yet anyways.
I had better get some or
It's gonna get f*ckin ugly !
Rough week, rough Saturday ( nuthin' but my own fault )
now no surf Sunday.
Uggh
Somethings gonna give
Well not yet anyways.
I had better get some or
Rough week, rough Saturday ( nuthin' but my own fault )
now no surf Sunday.
Uggh
Somethings gonna give
Sunday, March 03, 2013
Sunday 3/3/13 Guilty but GOOD
#14
On time for a Dawn Patrol ! 0545 I arrive to 2 in the water amidst the blackness at The Reef.
Val on her body board at the beach. The official Dawn Patrol on the cliff.
Suit up quickly and in.
Glass with some texture on it. I get into a few long rights again. I think my little Terramar has developed a better shoulder going right now this year.
I get a cheater 5, I think the best ever.
Get a very long inside left.. plus + plus.
Mike, Steve,Cruz and Tim are getting 'em as well. Just us in the water for an hour.
I'm am feeling guilty as last night, after my son came home from a 16 hour day , I ask him if he wants to"surf in the morning?"
His response is " well like when? 3AM?
Right.
So I suggest around 11am.
5 dark o'clock rolls around and I cant stay put and coffee up and go.
Bad Dad.
Live and learn
Next observation is that I definitely believe that surfing or the act of paddling for the wave is causing me back issues.
BACK ISSUES. SHIT !.
THIS is simply not cool, good, acceptable, etc.,etc. !
I need to figure out if I can avoid THIS in the future or I fear my days may be numbered.
THIS isn't figuring into the plan at all.
Good day, hope to have many more.
Many more ! !
On time for a Dawn Patrol ! 0545 I arrive to 2 in the water amidst the blackness at The Reef.
Val on her body board at the beach. The official Dawn Patrol on the cliff.
Suit up quickly and in.
I get a cheater 5, I think the best ever.
Get a very long inside left.. plus + plus.
Mike, Steve,Cruz and Tim are getting 'em as well. Just us in the water for an hour.
I'm am feeling guilty as last night, after my son came home from a 16 hour day , I ask him if he wants to"surf in the morning?"
His response is " well like when? 3AM?
Right.
So I suggest around 11am.
5 dark o'clock rolls around and I cant stay put and coffee up and go.
Bad Dad.
Live and learn
Next observation is that I definitely believe that surfing or the act of paddling for the wave is causing me back issues.
BACK ISSUES. SHIT !.
THIS is simply not cool, good, acceptable, etc.,etc. !
I need to figure out if I can avoid THIS in the future or I fear my days may be numbered.
THIS isn't figuring into the plan at all.
Good day, hope to have many more.
Saturday #13
I was late getting to dawn patrol.
6am
The sun is sneaking out earlier these days.
There is more at the reef then the houses, but more people as well.
I surfed alone for the first 1/2 hour.
Glass, clear skies, off shores.
Solitude.
Silence.
Waves
Slowish... but in that hour of surfing I got 12 or more most of which I felt good on.
Long rides with faced shoulders that went right, waaay right.
The reef had 16 surfers on it by 630, and while many got good waves there, I had made the right call for me...
Very stoked.
6am
The sun is sneaking out earlier these days.
There is more at the reef then the houses, but more people as well.
I surfed alone for the first 1/2 hour.
Glass, clear skies, off shores.
Solitude.
Silence.
Waves
Slowish... but in that hour of surfing I got 12 or more most of which I felt good on.
Long rides with faced shoulders that went right, waaay right.
The reef had 16 surfers on it by 630, and while many got good waves there, I had made the right call for me...
Very stoked.
Saturday, March 02, 2013
Sunday 2-24-13
#12 of the year
Because of being so sore after Fridays Fun I skipped Saturdays DP
Instead DP Sunday I thought I would play the tides and surf with my son.
Sunny, waves semi glass, and nobody out.
Yes! Surfing with Jason again!
It seems so long ago, now that we surfed so much together.
He hasn't really surfed in a long time. There have been occasional outings but nothing at all resembling consistent. I was in better paddle shape than he, something that I dont like to see, none the less he made it out and we had a good time. So good to see him surf again. He's been working 6 days a week for 2.5 years now.
We had a good time
I had a great time being "we"
Stoked
Because of being so sore after Fridays Fun I skipped Saturdays DP
Instead DP Sunday I thought I would play the tides and surf with my son.
Sunny, waves semi glass, and nobody out.
Yes! Surfing with Jason again!
It seems so long ago, now that we surfed so much together.
He hasn't really surfed in a long time. There have been occasional outings but nothing at all resembling consistent. I was in better paddle shape than he, something that I dont like to see, none the less he made it out and we had a good time. So good to see him surf again. He's been working 6 days a week for 2.5 years now.
We had a good time
I had a great time being "we"
Stoked
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