This mornings failure to launch off the cliff and into the water, WAS mostly due to atmospheric and oceanic conditions, (my head trippin), BUT
I wander back out to Terramar @ 12 noon.
The wind is just starting and I head off in my spring suit alone. Get a few junked up waves then ride in and remove the spring suit and go back in, in trunks.I get a few more in the chilly water but am renewed in the act of surfing without any wet suit .
It is so important for me to feel the water envelop me. To have that and the sun surround me simply turns me on.
On an even brighter note
IT"S DAYLIGHT SAVINGS TIME
This means I may survive myself !
If I cant get out just 2-3 days after work each week,
I might make it through another year !
STOKED ! ! ! ! !
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