Terramar

Sunday, March 03, 2013

Sunday 3/3/13 Guilty but GOOD

#14
On time for a Dawn Patrol ! 0545 I arrive to 2 in the water amidst the blackness at The Reef.
Val on her body board at the beach. The official Dawn Patrol on the cliff.
Suit up quickly and in.
Glass with some texture on it. I get into a few long rights again. I think my little Terramar has developed a better shoulder going right now this year.
I get a cheater 5, I think the best ever.
Get a very long inside left.. plus + plus.
Mike, Steve,Cruz and Tim are getting 'em as well. Just us in the water for an hour.
I'm am feeling guilty as last night, after my son came home from a 16 hour day , I ask him if he wants to"surf in the morning?"
His response is " well  like when? 3AM?
Right.
So I suggest around 11am.
5 dark o'clock rolls around and I cant stay put and coffee up and go.
Bad Dad.
Live and learn 
Next observation is that I definitely believe that surfing or the act of paddling for the wave is causing me back issues.
 BACK ISSUES. SHIT !.
THIS is simply not cool, good, acceptable, etc.,etc. !
I need to figure out if I can avoid THIS in the future or I fear my days may be numbered.
THIS  isn't figuring into the plan at all.

Good day, hope to have many more.
Many more ! !

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