Im a great Surfer.....whoa, Huh?

Hah  # 78
No, of course I am NOT a great surfer. But of course I aspire to be good, and to improve, always.
Am I stoked?
Hell yes, I am STOKED  !

I am improving. Yep .
What is astounding  is that the process takes so long, at least for me.
I have gotten a few really nice critiques/compliments over the last days. THANKS to those that do this.
It keeps ya goin' !
The waves were good this morning and the crowds were way less than the day before thanks to a party that most of the " locals " attended.
A really good day of surfing....
I'll take it   as always

surf on..

Wow there ARE ~ ~ ~ W ~ A ~ V ~ E ~ S ~ ~ ~

 # 77 After a month of flat or really small surf mostly we all get a push from mother O.

A clean, strong 545am push for me today.
Glassy, foggy, and un-used to anything over my knees in quite some time,
The Dawn Patrol ( about 5 of us in total ) set out to the reef and the houses.
I was walking towards the reef with my friend Terry,as it was going off, and decided to stop short and surf houses instead with Mike.
So walking too far past the houses paddle out channel I think... meh, its no big deal, and paddle out.
It's been so long with out waves that I forgot you shouldn't paddle out there really as there is no channel. So I get worked a bit in W A V E S.... surprise. A GREAT SURPRISE
Made it out and then got the fastest wave Ive had in a long time. A real long time.
F u n ! !
Got a few more then it got a bit crowded by 7am > the second shift showed up about an hour early today...Can't blame 'em I suppose.

So I got out and at right about the perfect time too.
Had a really good surfer I admire greatly paddle up to me after a wave and in a really stoked way congratulate me on a great ride. I love that ! It is so rare I ever get THAT !
Made my day.

A really good morning
So glad to be on some waves with some juice again.
Super stoked !

Surf, Sit Down (on that board), and Shut up #75

This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday.
Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son, Jason.

He reminded me (again) that I have no exit skill or even strategy after I finish a wave.

Basically for 10 years,
 I have been riding a wave to its ( or my own ) conclusion and then stepping, shooting, or otherwise JF Kooking off the board.
Ugly for sure. Definitely subtracts most any style points I can rack up during a ride
I've  known it but never cared, save a handful of times , to try to correct that.
So with my son's encouragement I will work on this in earnest. 
Well in the last four days of surfing I have at least sat down on the board at the end of the ride probably 30% after all waves I've stood on.
Doesn't sound like much, but wow, it is a lot better.

Mostly flat again these last days,1-3's, but the conditions,  weather and water have been insanely good for surfing.
I have loved surfing for days in a row and with my boy.
 Keeps me fired up and STOKED despite some very funky other aspects in my life.
 So for me it's gonna be SURF, SIT DOWN,  SHUT UP

I'm stoked

surf on...

69 is Devine.... been waiting 3 weeks for some, and

 session # 69 of the year comes through.
 After 3 weeks of very small surf...ankle to knee surf, we get a swell in the water on
LABOR DAY WEEKEND, crowds too, but none-the-less a fun sized swell.

Friday night after a, well,  a week of workstration, I am alone at home and decide to "go out you fool".
 It was 100 degrees and the water was probably 70. Humidity at 90 I would say
Despite the high tide there were a few bouncy waves to ride. Bouncy from the water rebounding off the cliff at the reef. The kind of waves that jack up with the reverse swell then the wave takes you on a little elevator ride up and down until finally it breaks. Like a rodeo, really.
Anyways the relief and release form the work week was so very much appreciated by myself that I got really stoked about the promised swell and end of the West Coast August Drought.
Saturday morning I arrive at Terramar at  Zero Dark Thirty to a full parking area. Wow.
So I trunk up and go right to the reef as its actually breaking there...
W A V E S are again in San Diego after virtually nothing for so  long. I mean really I am driven to "the reef" (without hesitation) from drought conditions for so long.
Most of the time at the reef the better surfers get most of the waves.
Now I love to surf but I know my abilities and although I over step them, rather frequently too I hope, in an effort to improve and aspire to my dreams of surfing, I am realistic enough to realize, well the reality of the situation. Which is why I choose to surf north of the reef most always.
The wave is less critical and certainly the people who surf there at " the houses" are less critical as well.
 Anyways this Saturday like a starving Hyena I venture straight into the pride of Lyons and guess what?
They were all in seemingly THE WRONG SPOT
I was evidently in THE RIGHT SPOT !!
Yay me !
It was like
Bill 12  
Reef PRO's 2   and there were about 20 reef PRO's by 630am
Ha
Had a good reef day.
This great day carried over into Sunday and Monday even though my count dropped dramatically.
Still was super stoked
Still am super stoked
Lost my reef inhibitions finally
Poof !

GREAT LABOR DAY WEEKEND SURF
despite crowds
GREAT