sweetness

Today was one of those days that go down as sweet.
My son Jason ( shown above on Big Wednesday 12/21/05 looking over TerraMar)
and I (below with my winter beard, looking over Del Mar)


started at the beach break area and quickly saw the reef was breaking better. So we decided to make the 100 yard paddle over. This was cool as it was super glass and windless.
made it over and about 5-8 of the "regulars" were catching some nice peaky waves.
"Bout 70% of the regulars are pretty good surfers( mostly longboards) and bout 25% are V E R Y G O O D surfers. It can be a little intimidating and if your not "on it" you're not gonna get much.
My son was on our biggest board and he was getting alot. I was on a less familiar shorter board and was hanging south about 10-15 yards and waiting for the right that I new would show, based on the swell. I started getting my share until I was discovered and a little crowd formed around me.
No worries, Jason and I spent 2 hours surfing it up in some really nice conditions.
It's hard to describe how "complete" I feel when my son and I share a great surfing session like that together......it's just sublime and the after glow and stoke is such a gift..

surf on





I