I read a forecasters blurb the other day on shurfshot forecast. A possible swell showing up this coming Monday 12/03/07
THAT forecaster eluded to a swell model looking similar to the one that came on 12/21/05 and permanently changed my life( at least to date)
I remember 12/21/05. Wednesday.
I remember my frustration of not even being able to make the paddle out 3 days later
( thank youGod, for I was nowhere near ready).
This is a gallery of that swell, read through it. All of the pages of photos are great.
The comments are equally as great.
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves?page=1
I'm willing
I'm able
I hope
surf on
About Me
- Bill
- I started surfing in 2002, as a result of my then 16 year old son Jason asking "why don't we learn to surf?" I moved from the high Sierra's 26 years ago to San Diego for a career, but specifically S.D. to be near the ocean and learn to surf. I forgot. Jason reminded me, 16 years later. On the Friday following California's Big Wed 2005, I failed to make a paddle out, as my son video taped me. Thats when "IT" really started. I was hooked. 2006 I surfed over 200 sessions and in 2007 it was about 260. Feb 8th 2008. I go in for a back surgery. I expect to be out of the hospital in 3-5 days and back to work in 4-6 weeks. What followed was nothing short of a nightmare. My hospital stay ran into 40 days. 4 near death complications. etc.,etc.,etc., My major recovery period turned into 8-12 months. It has now been 5 years since the nightmare and it isn't over yet. This is a story of the fight to get back to good. This is the story of hope and stoke.
Popular Posts
-
After 2 days of difficult to catch waves in the high tide early mornings of dawn patrol I get MUCH more frustration on Sunday. Too cold ... -
This week I was fortunate enough to grab 3 days off after the Labor Day Holiday. Wed,Thurs, and Friday, and get back to surfing with my son... -
After Tuesdays stoke and the realization of why work seems soooo hard to me now ( my lack of after work surfing), I decided for a repeat bli...
-
Surfing is getting more relaxed these days. I'm surfing better. Better than before the surgical disaster. A lot of that has to do with 2... -
Got a few waves out there Saturday, the first of 5 days off work. It was good it's always good.
-
This year has seen not much of any thing from the winter waves I thought would have been here by now. Last "year"(2012) I recall b...
-
Friday night and Saturday Morning were good. PM surfing was with my son. It is ALWAYS good surfing with my son. JASON+FRIENDS+WAVES+TRUNKS+N...
-
The Photo is of Chuck. Chuck has Terramar wired. Chuck and I start the paddle out together and as we are timing the waves to get out ...
2 comments:
#58 is still may favorite. I thought you said you went out on 12/21/05?? I was out of town that year but not so this time - gulp!
#58 is just so nice, I agree 58 is it.
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves/0B0EBB8E_6B7E_452A_9C75_4897DEA3FE75_1
Post a Comment