It has been a full 7 months since I was in the water.
Feb. 7th, 2008 I was a 225 session a year, intermediate surfer of 6 years, finally in half assed surfing shape, surfing with my son Jason and friends, as much as possible.
Feb. 8th, 2008 I had a disaster surgery that left me unable to move for 40 some days, almost leaving this world ( against my will ) 4 times in a 5 week period. During that time it was uncertain if I would live, let alone be able to return to ANY activities I once enjoyed, such as walking. I believe injury specifics are outlined in some of my previous posts below.
Yeah
Today, Sept. 2nd, 2008 Jason and I paddled out at about 645am into warm and very glassy, clear water, blue morning skies, sunshine, dead calm winds , It was beautiful. No problems paddling out. I was able to arch and paddle, and I was afraid that that wasn't going to be possible any longer. I tried to paddle into 4 waves and managed to get up to my knees on one of those, but could get no further. My abdominal wounds/scars said NOT YET ! ! ! This was actually more than I expected to be able to do, so I am STOKED.
I now know that once my abdominal wall and ab. muscles are back 100% I will continue to surf on, and on as long as I can. The paddle out today was really miraculous considering all.
I have the amazing stoke in my belly again burning. I know what will happen as soon as I stand.
Today I was in tears afterwards, it was so good. I was aching to get in the water and it was just so good. Thank you God and Mother Earth. Thank you Laurie, my love, for bringing me back to life. Thank you Jason for inspiring me. Thank you family and friends for keeping the faith, deliberately.
I am so thankful.....
post script
WED morning ( day after ) My arms hurt.... ALOT ! ! !
surf on...
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8 comments:
No way Bill!!! Awesome. You should look into a wide little kneeboard. That would stoke you during the recovery. Amazing that you could get back in the water, enjoy these little souths comin' in!
Way to fight back and get out there! Are you trying to make us cry with you? I'll bet that water and the views never felt so good. Your story and progress is an inspiration to all of us. Scott
Thanks folks..
that's what the brotherhood IS about
Fight on, Big Dog!!! That is great news!!! You'll be back out there feeling good before you know it.
Hell yeah! Right on, man. Way to battle. I wish you continued health and many more days in the glide.
Thanks Sis and Christian....
you feed the fire
Way to get on it...
I belly rode one just the other day...
Now I realize it was in your honor...
The view was way more impressive from down there...
And it was only knee high anyway...
I'm glad you're still "Surfing Terramar"...
I did from 1970 to 1987 as a kid...
And later as a lifeguard at Ponto and other state beaches...
Best to you and yours Bill.
Troy
Stoked for you! What a simple and beautiful blessing just the paddle can be.
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