Gray sky never agreed with me.It irritates my eyes.
It bugs my brain. It keeps me in.
Gray sky,for me, is a basic bummer.
However,
I am not gonna let that stop me from going.
Surfing is one activity that takes my mind off it,
and "me".
It takes my mind off everything bad, no matter how bad.
It has been a good week for me.
Ive been in the water 4 of the last 6 days.
I hurt.... I may always hurt, so what.
I'm stoked again. Practiced cross stepping most of the session until my friend Eileen showed up in the water. Nice surprise. A friend from "the past" in a way. She surfs well and chooses her words. It was good to surf with her for a bit. Waves were few between but none the less, a surf is a surf, is a surf, and I ALWAYS come out washed "clean". My goal now will be to get 200 sessions in, for the 2010 year. Work will conspire against me, but I will find a way. I have to really, as I have heard often in the last few days, that "surfers don't really make the choice, the choice is made for them." This is sooooo true !
surf on..... I think a new swell approaches.
2 comments:
"I may always hurt, so what."
That may have well been said by my all time hero Henry Rollins.
I hear you on 200. I used to hit 300 days a year, then friends moved away, the shoulders went south and if I hit 200, well, that will be damn amazing.
Glad you are having such mellow times in the water.
if it's glassy, I love it when it's grey, those days when the water and horizon blend together. Sunny is nice too.
Post a Comment