Just EXACTLY what I needed ! ! ! ! Perfect !

Saturday morning was ok.... I didn't get many waves and, well, it was ok.
Sat.,night I dreamt of huge walls of green.Then came Sunday morning,
and it was blown out at 0700.
Made a call or two and it was described as victory at sea.
Cameras showed "kinda crappy".
Like the big little kid I am, I was outwardly disappointed. Ceilings of grayness were there all morning into early afternoon, this depressed me.
THEN...as promised,Dave called and said" looks pretty good, little texture and shoulder high stuff". After some grumbling, I asked Jason to go with me and of course he says sure.
Got in @ 330 pm with a glass off and clean up from out side shoulder - ++ sets of big fat crumblers . The clouds gave way to pure blue skies and warm sunshine. 50 -100 yards south, hollow overheads were seen and HEARD,
the kind sound that makes you tingle, air being forced thru and over the glassy water!
Jason, Dave and I,
got many waves with steep drops and long shoulder rides.
I haven't really had a "perma grin" like that in....
well in a year to the day.
Exactly one year ago I "rolled " out of the hospital,
after spending a month there in a state of near death.
One year ago today I came home.
One year ago I started out barely able to make a lap around my house with 3 bulb drains hanging out of my abdomen sucking vileness out of my body, a wound vac machine sucking equally horrid stuff from a gaping un-stichable, 12 cut in my abdomen.
I had a bag attached to my stomach to poo into.
I don't think I "believed" I would ever surf again, really.
I wanted to, and was determined to "achieve " this goal but,
I really didn't believe I would ever surf like I just did, again, in my life, ever.
Exactly one year ago, all there was was the most tiny spark of stoke left in my life.
Yesterday was MIRACULOUS actually ! !
I am forever grateful to ALL !
GOD, MOTHER OCEAN, Family and friends, all ! !