Got Some.... 2 WEEKDAYS in a row !! !!!!!!!! This is a good thing for me.

WED pm THURS pm
Took a shorter board to work each day, so no excuses. Got into some peaky steeper drops.
Very warm water, trunks totally and ZERO chill. glass, sweetness.
I felt normal for the first time in 1.2 years.
Came to a great realization.... something I have always known.
I want to, maybe, truly need to, surf a lot !

More later.....

surf on