This was most unexpected this morning, as it was inconsistent and fairly crowded.
I was to meet Dave, early. He parked way down the line and I took the numero uno spot, which was open.
Dave never paddled out.
I Paddled out into a group of 20 , although none of them my closest friends. I looked around, then quickly proceeded South at the dead end of that group, and WHAM... one came right to me. It's always kinda weird to have that happen in a lineup but..... I secretly love exactly that. Nice long glassy left past the whole line up. I called off a friend, "Squat", with a "Howdy neighbor"
I wouldn't be alone again this morning.This was fine considering everything. Paddled back out to compliments from many
( that's a rarity in this group ). Took a rest and deliberately passed on a couple. Saw an outsider and went for it, grabbed a right , a long one. Sweet. Did the long paddle back, got some looks and rested.
The next left was a shoulder peak with a pit and I positioned perfectly, moved forward on the big board and went flying, my best position on a wave in a long time. Called off a hopper and he said "where did you come from?", I replied "way the hell back there bro!"and continued on down the wave.
Many comments again about the speed I had, and some " I could have had that'(s)"
My final was a right and alone, Squat had gone left. This was a chest high shoulder, and I was positioned in the top 3/4 of the wave the whole ride. Just kinda dancing the nose of the board up past the lip and then down, repeat,repeat,repeat, floater, then rode it in to 1 foot of water. Stepped off and went home.
Perfection comes very rarely for me, and is always when I least expect it !
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3 comments:
sounds great.
Sounds like a great morning, don`t you love when that happens? Keep after it Bill
Hey Now!
I stumbled across your blog, sounds like we've got a lot of imprtant things in common. Drop me a line at vaxjobs at hotmail dot com and maybe we can trade tapes or plasmids or something in a North County lineup one day.
Either way, I dig your session reports, and will be back to see how things are going.
Pete
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