Big Daddy's Day

My son knows what I like to do.

Surfing with him will always be my favorite thing to do.
Day started out cold and gray. So some Jason/Mom waffles brightened things up.Awhile later things ended up bright blue, warm, trunks, and a bit of a swell.
Surfed for hours. Afterwards Dave came home with us and we relaxed a bit. Then Jason,Laurie, and I all watched a nice blue ray together on my sons killer high def set up. Topped off the night with a root beer float and I'm one PROUD and HAPPY dad ! !

Happy fathers day to y'all, its a great thing being a dad and surfing with your son (children).

surf on....

A BIG South on Tuesday Night

A BIG South on Tuesday Night....perfect.
Got home after a San Digey meeting for work and the $2.00 Del Mar day traffic cost me about , well, 1 hour in traffic delays.
Looked at the Tam Cam and saw the big south lines. Hmmmm ..... hit it.
In @ 6pm and proceded to get shoulder high rides . To the south the reef was booming again, it really hasn't stopped for week ++.
I got mine and some fine rides there were.
My body is still healing, it has been 1 1/2 years now ! !
Have a ways to go.
Got complimented from strangers on some rides...WOW !
I am getting closer to good as far as recovery goes.
Stoked...YEAH IM STOKED
Who woulda thought......I didnt really , thank God for family and friends.
surf on....

More Reef man, More Reef

Went out today with a newly repaired spring suit that a bud...Birke Buddy.. told me how to fix.
This time I walked with Dan to the reef, after returning his shorty loaner from yesterday.
Surfer/Wave ratio was messed up.
Went to it but didn't compete with the Main peakers and thus didn't get the quality I wanted.
But I did get to chase Alita down the face of one.
She hopped me, kinda, I might not have made the section, I dunno,
but the view was good LoL.
Got about 5 right close-outs and 1 left.
Ah the reef...... many there get surly when the wave action slows. I just wasn't in the mood today, wish my son or Dave had been there, I get strength from them to handle that scene.

I love my wife.
I love my life, my son, and my family and friends.
I love to surf.
I love the water.
I love the sun.
I love being a surfer.
God, I Thank you ! ! ! ! ! !

Reefer Madness

The reef was in full swing this morning. Got out @ 630 and things were drained at the houses and the beach, but the reef just pounds on during the whole of last week and this morn.
Last night I never made it into the water....defective shorty zipper failed, and I wasn't in the mood to trunk.
Fixed the zipper( thought I did ).
Went out today, put on the shorty suit, and" voila" the whole zipper fell of broken.
A buddy, Dan, loaned me his shorty as he wanted to go full suit, repaying some wet suit help I offered him from a weekend prior.
I walked down with him and Chuck, but as they turned to paddle out I just kept walking to the reef.
I NEVER DO THAT !
Paddled out and immediately turned on one in the middle of 20 reefers. It was G O O D.
Good wave, but more so, Good for the HEAD and SPIRIT. I will admit I never got a MAIN peak but took off whenever I knew I could get one to myself, especially if I felt others wouldn't beat their section.
This paid off well. I got 6-8 really nice ones today, coulda done better and been more aggro, coulda done a lot worse and not have had any.

Might go back out tonight, waiting on a call,
well see

South Swell + Cosmic Weather x myself + a few friends = perma-grin

Wednesday 6/2/09
As promised a ( purple blobs from far away) south....was just beginning to show up.
No one out at the reef after work because tides were a bit high. The weather was perfectly cosmic. High, broken up clouds stretched across the sky. Warm sun beaming through the breaks in the ceiling. No wind on the water. Big thunderheads looking east, with that odd, warm, and yet contrasting lighting. Clear, warm water. Got some nice rights at the reef. Sometimes the big Slick stick is, well it's like cheating out there. It catches what many boards cannot. An advantage is good, and I will take that once in awhile.
I've earned it.
Saturday 6/6/09
High hopes.
After some bum weather Friday eve. which kept me at home , I was hoping the newly filled in South would be in full, GLASSY production early Saturday morning.
VERY EARLY, as we all have been somewhat starved for decent surf for weeks.
In @ 5:45am and the reef had 25 surfers on it.
I chose 5 palms and tween the reef, to the far south of the houses entry point.
It was the only place for solitude....and I know a secret about that spot that many forget.
Cosmic tropical looking weather again.
This time I was in a spot where I could hear no one else chattering.
I could hear many birds from the gardens on the shore.
The lighting and canopy were beautiful.
I could hear the reef tubing .
I was gifted nice glassy lefts AND rights. Got a full five O V E R!
I have never done that before. It was one of my very best performance days.
Ever !
I would not have expected to ever say that after 2/8/08.
Lots of surfers confirmed I wasn't dreaming.
N i c e !
Sunday 06/07/09
Hope was high but I knew the reality would be different.
6:45am and 50-60 people were where yesterday there were only 30.
Smaller all around. The reef was still banging, as were many boards.
It was 4-5 people take offs on each set wave, boards, asses and elbows flying until 1 would be left upright, then that person would get hopped. Repeat. Repeat.
I chose the same spot I enjoyed yesterday but.... everyone else did too.
Got 3 waves that were good. 3 were solo shots, amazingly.
@7:45 rode one in, poured some hot water on myself and got home.
An hour well spent.
I am being handed a big bonus in life. Thank you !