South Swell + Cosmic Weather x myself + a few friends = perma-grin

Wednesday 6/2/09
As promised a ( purple blobs from far away) south....was just beginning to show up.
No one out at the reef after work because tides were a bit high. The weather was perfectly cosmic. High, broken up clouds stretched across the sky. Warm sun beaming through the breaks in the ceiling. No wind on the water. Big thunderheads looking east, with that odd, warm, and yet contrasting lighting. Clear, warm water. Got some nice rights at the reef. Sometimes the big Slick stick is, well it's like cheating out there. It catches what many boards cannot. An advantage is good, and I will take that once in awhile.
I've earned it.
Saturday 6/6/09
High hopes.
After some bum weather Friday eve. which kept me at home , I was hoping the newly filled in South would be in full, GLASSY production early Saturday morning.
VERY EARLY, as we all have been somewhat starved for decent surf for weeks.
In @ 5:45am and the reef had 25 surfers on it.
I chose 5 palms and tween the reef, to the far south of the houses entry point.
It was the only place for solitude....and I know a secret about that spot that many forget.
Cosmic tropical looking weather again.
This time I was in a spot where I could hear no one else chattering.
I could hear many birds from the gardens on the shore.
The lighting and canopy were beautiful.
I could hear the reef tubing .
I was gifted nice glassy lefts AND rights. Got a full five O V E R!
I have never done that before. It was one of my very best performance days.
Ever !
I would not have expected to ever say that after 2/8/08.
Lots of surfers confirmed I wasn't dreaming.
N i c e !
Sunday 06/07/09
Hope was high but I knew the reality would be different.
6:45am and 50-60 people were where yesterday there were only 30.
Smaller all around. The reef was still banging, as were many boards.
It was 4-5 people take offs on each set wave, boards, asses and elbows flying until 1 would be left upright, then that person would get hopped. Repeat. Repeat.
I chose the same spot I enjoyed yesterday but.... everyone else did too.
Got 3 waves that were good. 3 were solo shots, amazingly.
@7:45 rode one in, poured some hot water on myself and got home.
An hour well spent.
I am being handed a big bonus in life. Thank you !