Went out @ 5 pm not expecting much.
Headed straight to the reef after saying hi to Ted and Pat at houses.
They weren't getting any and of course, the reef was getting some.
GLASS, CLEAR,WARM WATER,
TRUNKS, zero wind.. beautiful ! ! !
Paddled right into the thick of things and caught 5 or 6 waist to chest highs right off the bat.
Then caught a shoulder peak, fought off two others and cruised that face to the beach and paddled right back.
Saw my friend Dave all alone midway inside getting a lot of 25 yard rides. A lot of em.
I left the pack and joined him for 2 more hours of wave after wave after wave.
We were super stoked and laughing like children for hours! ! !
I think I stood and rode 20 waves and so did Dave.
It was UN REAL !
It was PERFECTION !
Here is where I was just a short while back
http://surfing-terra-mar.blogspot.com/2008/09/my-1st-paddle-out-in-7-months-ahhhhh.html
Today I stood 20-30 times and paddled like a pro..... thanks all ! !
THANKS
surf on....
4 comments:
Nothing like a the feeling of being a happy child.
Man, that sounds like an epic session!
some times it all comes together and that sopt is as good a place to be as any when it does!
or that "spot" lol
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