Terramar

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Pinch me, I'm dreamin'

2 and 1/2 years back
I was hospitalized for 40 days.
I nearly died several times and was almost, or felt dead for 30 of those 40 days.
While conscious I saw my wife Laurie, son Jason, some family, and a couple friends come and go.
Made a best friend in there, though we knew each other from Terramar
All this as I would enter and leave consciousness.

When I was alone and not missing family, I would think, wish, or dream of being in water.

Water is what I would be denied, maybe forever.


I was not going to be close to water tight for a very long time.
Hoses coming out of my abdomen, and sides
were draining different colors of nasty vileness from the center of my body.
I COULD GO ON AND ON ABOUT ALL THE CRAP.........,

But boy, did I ever dream some nice stuff...


This morning at 0600AM, I ran into the cool, glassy ocean, with trunks and a 10 foot board.

I was alone at Ted's and the palms for an hour.
Got maybe 10 or more rides in that hour.
So quiet, sun shining on me at 615 as I sit on the board.
The water slipping all around my arms, and splashing my back and legs as I paddle.
A nice rhythmic song in my head.
Sun light and cool water splashing onto my face as I go for each wave.
Morning sun, and soft, warm water sprinkles my face, as I stand for each wave.
The only sound I hear is that from the board as it starts to pickup speed, and from the wave peaks crashing.
Big grins
Nice vibe
and very in tune...
making some turns, gliding and flying over the water...

this was today, this morning,

This is what I
could only dream of, for so long, however
this was this morning.



4 comments:

Surfsister said...

Glory be!! You rule, Bill! I'm so glad you're better and able to surf your brains out! As you would say, "Surf on!"

christian said...

Nice man. That's the way to live.

Dave Surfs said...

beautiful!
Thanks for sharing the moment

Mick said...

May there be many more...