Very glassy which was nice.......
A few with shoulders would come through.
Saw some score some .... Chuck, Mike
then the crowds filled in ...
I finally got a left that I thought had some shoulder on it,
but got hopped, accidentally ( I think ) by a wahine
It was good> I met a few new folks, formally, always a good thing.
Sunday I will be in at 5am (trunks, in pure defiance)
and ready to turn on one at the reef.
Hell or high water !
5am
Come ON Mr. Sun get your ass out there.
surf on
No comments:
Post a Comment