Sundays Surf

Although I was up at 0530, I left dawn patrol to the sunrise and the clouds.
This morning I would be able to surf with my son.
Surfing with Jason has a huge significance in my life.
It is 50% of what got me out of an awful situation about 3 years ago.

I look forward to spending time in the water with Jason. I hope to spend it with his children, if I am ever so lucky.

Today we were in at 0915
Trunks and sunshine, really nice stuff.
Jason on the big board surfing well, trying out some backside pig doggin' ala Andy Irons Tips and Tricks.
He did well with it.
I caught a few and missed a few. We swapped boards and I immediately pearled with not enough of that board in front of me.Then caught some nice rights and lefts. I am really liking the thinner and shorter Cris Slick these days.

All in all today was great!
I love November in San Diego.

Below a photo of a fellow surfer I just met, Greg I believe.
He is perched smack in the middle of paradise.
Maybe he's thinking of his son, Brendon, in Hawaii.
http://brendonsrants.blogspot.com/
Maybe he has just closed his eyes and is drifting into the sun, or perhaps dreaming of riding waves.
Perfect.


Nice Day

surf on....

"Such a long long time to be gone, and a short time to be there"

I have really been feeling the temporary nature of life on this earth lately.

Had a good morning surf yesterday despite the fact the waves were small.
Sat in the very clear , glassy water with the dawn's sunshine on me and a handful of other Terramarians.
Got a couple of good rides and a couple of not so good rides.
It's the smaller ones that define skill and finesse I think.
But I'm working on it.
After 0830 I ran back up and did pull of that damn wetsuit, then got back in for some trunks.

Spent a lot of the rest of the day reflecting on life and such. Some really great footage of memorials to Andy Irons on surfline.
What style that man had.
He was like a soul surfing short boarder.
WHAT INCREDIBLE FORM AND SKILL

Today, Sunday,my son is finally not working a day so we will give it a go and get what we can. Maybe Swamis :)

surf on....

An excellent week all in all.

Surfed after work 3 of 5 days this last week, always a good thing. Wednesday, was reasonably large and powerful at Terramar, if lacking in shape somewhat.
I was hoping for a repeat of the wave from the previous week, but this wave did close out a bit early. Still, feeling the oceans power is always so exhilarating. Thursday was good and Friday a little less so.

Jason, my son,

surfed at least 3 two-a-days this week. He is getting it in before he ventures off into the business world.

After graduating last summer from SDSU he has been applying like crazy all over the place.
Well.... he got hired at a company with a view of Terramar and Igor's.
5 minutes from surfing Terramar
He got HIRED !
In the midst of all of this unemployment crap he got hired on in an excellent company close by and stable.
I am really very "full" if you know what I mean. I am very proud that he has done what I could not do.
I am very , very full and it feels good.
The last few years have been challenging to say the least.
Before = pre surgery and several life threatening events and situations
I now surf better than before.
My relationship with my wife and son is better than before.
I am witnessing my dream for my son come true.
An excellent week all in all
surf on.... better than before

Nice swell eh !

Yeah it got pretty big last night @ Terramar.
Shape wasn't what I was hoping for exactly,. I was hoping for a repeat of last Friday nights wave , but it was close. Good to feel POWER under you and get the heart thumping and all. Jason snapped his leash during his second surf with me last night. Good thing some good folks had a leash to lend him as he came back out and really caught some large stuff and rode them well.....
I caught a few and really had a couple of great drops... I always feel good when I stick a steep drop and bottom turn.
Everyone at Terramar was super stoked.... LIKE !


Below is a great recent interview with the late Andy Irons. RIP Andy
His ending statement is one of my favorites
A.I. " I surf because I'm always a better person when I come in"
Amen surf on...