Had one of those Rare Days today.. ALOHA

1-2 feet forecast.
Woke up at 430 tossing n turning over work.
Loaded up and headed out despite the forecast and cameras .
Arrived at 0545 and put on the trunks with out checking the water.
Went down, stretched and looked a some empty peaks and glass in virtual solitude at houses.
Paddled out and hooked a right that rode for a bit, to my surprise.
Then a couple 3 more.....
Saw Mike, Steve,  Chuck, and some other friends surfing an occasional reef breaker and paddled over there.
As soon as I arrived a pretty decent peak came through and surprised everyone. As they went out the back I got into the pocket after a nice peaky drop.
Ha ! Wow ! SURPRISE
I rode one of the nicest waves I've had in a long time.
I was laughing out loud in both directions.
It made my day.
Got 1 or 2 more then some one threw the off switch and I exited.

nice group
nice morning
nice waves

yeah

Father's Day Surf

The waves weren't good, although I caught a few and so did my son. IT has been way too long since we had surfed together. I hope to remedy that by surfing with him after we finish work, if only these afternoon winds would stop.
Fathers day itself was cool. Nice breakfast out with my family, a late morning surf with Jason and Laurie at the beach with us.
Jason also made a super "Giovanni's" Hawaiian shrimp dish
 made with the real stuff (right from the van at Haleiwa) from Oahu.
Also good day at home in the garden checking out the Plumerias etc, etc.

a good day  and a good surf with my son.
look forward to more

surf on Jason and Bill

I luv dawn patrol

Today was good at 5:15 AM Trunks only.
Glassy and quiet with waves. Warm peaks showing up, with an occasional nice shoulder. rights,  lefts,  nose rides , and just a few good people in the water.
  Perfect really.
 I did however miss my surf buddy, Dave.


Since his new found love, Betsy, is down "there", we don't surf together so much as before, but I know he's happy and they are surfing Cardiff a lot.
Did the stretch before and after and surfed without cramp incident.
Gonna get more in next week.
I really failed at my attempt to get 5 surfs in this week, I'm gonna end up 3 short.
Oh, well.
Keep tryin' !

surf on.

This Sunday Morning Makes Three

This is an all out attempt to re kindle and stoke myself.
I know that work got the better of me this last year.
I know this now and I know what it will take to get me straight again, both at work and in life.
Surf, surf, surf and oh yeah, SURF
With god willing and the love of my family, I will get back to good thru surfing.

TODAY was me, all alone, and in between a reef pack and a pack to the North at the "stacks".
Trunks, glass warm water and some set waves that would take me for short and sweet rights.
In fact I got 10-12 waves in the hour  0600-0700.
I WAS VERY STOKED ABOUT THAT.... I made a great call with out too much "thought"

Of the last 4 days, I have been  in the water 3 times.
Side note;  the stretching before hand is really working, patience really is  a virtue, Bill.

oh yeah, my senses are returning.....
this week must contain 5 surfs minimum.

wish me luck, I need it ! ! 

This morning was " two"

Got in the water at 5:45 am that is......yeah the real dawn patrol stuff. So it's gray out and there is a nip to the air, I don't bother looking at the water to check it out. I saw it was glass , but didn't look at size,shape,frequency etc.As I am getting into my TRUNKs,Terry, a friend who is suitng up asks, "are you gonna look at it"? "No, what's the point" is my reply, meaning every word. I had put on a 1ml shirt and then took it right back off, and he asks, "not gonna where your top.""Nah, what's the point?" I was in a perfect state of mind for what I wanted to do. Surf without thinking about anything, nothing , doing it exactly as I want. in trunks, in glass, at 545 am There were only three people in the water, all off them at the reef. Terry says let's go there, he always surfs the reef, I never do. I would normally think about it, not today. No thinking. Just doing. Ok. Reef it is, regardless of the fact I never surf there and for REASONS, reasons=thought, So the thought of my struggle with surfing That damn reef left does not even occur to me. Terry says a prayer, stretches a bit and heads out, I continue to stretch my ridiculous hamstrings with out thought. Jus stretch the mothers so I don't get grapefruit sized knots my thigh in 15 minutes.. paddle out. Say hi to a few, go to the south so I can catch rights instead of the ever present reef left, and get about 6 smaller knee to waist rights with nose, etc. Real nice. I went for a left or two at the end of the surf, missed em, and finally picked one and rode it in right behind Terry. we got out, Waeed back down the beach to the cars NO CRAMPS at all this day a real 180qfrom 2days ago. A really nice Saturday morning surf. looking forward to trying for 5 surfs this coming Monday- Sunday and rinse and repeat, and rinse and repeat, and repeat, and repeat...... Surf on

Last night was "One"

Last night, after work , in an all out effort to break a nasty all work no surf cycle, I called Dave, and promised him I would go out "no matter what it looks like".
Did it!
As I suspected and forgot, that did wash away the days troubles almost as instantly as I got in the water.
Trunks , sun, swell ,with some bump and chop.

There was no one there. I surfed and got 2 rideables in 15 minutes. Then a few others came out, but I had a spot to myself and got a few more, despite the bump.

Fought terrible leg cramping the whole time, but....

it worked.....

"Two" please !

All work and no surfing makes Bill a dull boy

Can I break this wretched cycle ?

Hope and faith are always good.