This Sunday Morning Makes Three

This is an all out attempt to re kindle and stoke myself.
I know that work got the better of me this last year.
I know this now and I know what it will take to get me straight again, both at work and in life.
Surf, surf, surf and oh yeah, SURF
With god willing and the love of my family, I will get back to good thru surfing.

TODAY was me, all alone, and in between a reef pack and a pack to the North at the "stacks".
Trunks, glass warm water and some set waves that would take me for short and sweet rights.
In fact I got 10-12 waves in the hour  0600-0700.
I WAS VERY STOKED ABOUT THAT.... I made a great call with out too much "thought"

Of the last 4 days, I have been  in the water 3 times.
Side note;  the stretching before hand is really working, patience really is  a virtue, Bill.

oh yeah, my senses are returning.....
this week must contain 5 surfs minimum.

wish me luck, I need it ! !