Last night, after work , in an all out effort to break a nasty all work no surf cycle, I called Dave, and promised him I would go out "no matter what it looks like".
Did it!
As I suspected and forgot, that did wash away the days troubles almost as instantly as I got in the water.
Trunks , sun, swell ,with some bump and chop.
There was no one there. I surfed and got 2 rideables in 15 minutes. Then a few others came out, but I had a spot to myself and got a few more, despite the bump.
Fought terrible leg cramping the whole time, but....
it worked.....
"Two" please !
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