This morning was " two"

Got in the water at 5:45 am that is......yeah the real dawn patrol stuff. So it's gray out and there is a nip to the air, I don't bother looking at the water to check it out. I saw it was glass , but didn't look at size,shape,frequency etc.As I am getting into my TRUNKs,Terry, a friend who is suitng up asks, "are you gonna look at it"? "No, what's the point" is my reply, meaning every word. I had put on a 1ml shirt and then took it right back off, and he asks, "not gonna where your top.""Nah, what's the point?" I was in a perfect state of mind for what I wanted to do. Surf without thinking about anything, nothing , doing it exactly as I want. in trunks, in glass, at 545 am There were only three people in the water, all off them at the reef. Terry says let's go there, he always surfs the reef, I never do. I would normally think about it, not today. No thinking. Just doing. Ok. Reef it is, regardless of the fact I never surf there and for REASONS, reasons=thought, So the thought of my struggle with surfing That damn reef left does not even occur to me. Terry says a prayer, stretches a bit and heads out, I continue to stretch my ridiculous hamstrings with out thought. Jus stretch the mothers so I don't get grapefruit sized knots my thigh in 15 minutes.. paddle out. Say hi to a few, go to the south so I can catch rights instead of the ever present reef left, and get about 6 smaller knee to waist rights with nose, etc. Real nice. I went for a left or two at the end of the surf, missed em, and finally picked one and rode it in right behind Terry. we got out, Waeed back down the beach to the cars NO CRAMPS at all this day a real 180qfrom 2days ago. A really nice Saturday morning surf. looking forward to trying for 5 surfs this coming Monday- Sunday and rinse and repeat, and rinse and repeat, and repeat, and repeat...... Surf on