Rare Friday Fun

#11 STOKED

Friday at the Doctor's at 0730 then...  Made a crummy day a great one !

End of February 78 degrees, sun, glass, waves, convertible.
Fun !
How often can I surf ALONE in the middle of a lot of waves and grab ,I don't know, 20 hand picked waves?
Practically never !
Rights, lefts, close outs, speed glides, turns  new moves are coming, good stuff.
Great session.
Now everything hurts.
It will be the way things are for me, I suppose, to a degree.
Whatever.
Nice day                                                                                                            I'm STOKED

STOKED

Presidents Day ..... meh?

#10

3RD day of a long weekend and the weather went from Offshore and 78 to still and 58 degrees.
Glassy and overcast. Kinda messy on the inside and peaky walls with occasion shoulders.

Dawn patrol cadet Froelich shows up late, about 30 minutes, but for the 3rd day in a row is pre-suited up  to prevent any 2nd thoughts when arriving at the beach. Got there ready to surf and maybe repeat a couple of new moves I started the day before...notably a front side, drop knee right turn.

Mike and I get in the water and were virtually alone for a good while.
 I am not getting into waves as easily as the last 2 days but I do get a few and enjoyed the surf .
It was a bit tide(y) for the swell.
I am making a change in my front side(regular)turn and it is getting me fired up. Hope to keep it going.
I think it was getting better as I exited, with the dropping tide from 3 feet down to 1 foot.
Warm waters was going off nicely....all those shrimpy boards everywhere though, uggh. LoL


 Terramar.
I love looking at it.
I love dreaming on it.
I love surfing on it.

Surf goooooood !

Things are g o o d... Surfing is changing a little THANK GOD

#'s 9 and 10
Another fun filled week at work closes out, and the stoke begins to glow and grow.
Saturday... 530am forecast 1-2 feet.
Put on my new wetsuit at home. 
This  = "I'm goin' in", regardless of conditions,
loaded the board into the convertible and at 5:45 headed to Terramar.
Since I have kept my word to myself and lost some weight( 18lbs) I have been searching for, and found some new gear. So I get this EXCEL Infinity 3/2 in a"1 suit left"closeout clearance sale   $90.00. Boom ! Its a $270.00 suit.
So while I HATE having to wear one., it is making super early DP do-able. I love the warmth of my new wetsuit.....weird thing for me to use love and wetsuit in the same sentence, but anyways, I got stoked from a new piece of gear. Got to admit it is better being, well, not too cold, there.
So I get there at 6 and only 2 DPers there. Steve y Cruz
I spend 3 minutes on the cliff then go.
Small, glassy,cold knee highs
Steve leaves Cruz comes in. We get waves for an hour.

Sunday, 530am same weak forecast
Again suit up at home, this actually does 2 things.
Saves face while struggling to put on new suit and ensures I will paddle out despite small surf.
This is working very well for me.
This morning its Steve and Terry.
I spend another 5 minutes cliff side then go in.
 Alone.
 ALONE and this time there are a few set waves to shoulder and pure glass.
Beautiful, quiet, glassy, lonely waves and myself. Got a lot of waves this morning.
Maybe 5 or 6 before Terry came out.
Maybe 12 before Steve decided to go.
Had 2 rights that I surfed well on. Almost toes over and steering the board down the glassy line and face.
Saw Terry get a couple, we had a good talk out there too.
Steve got some, but it was best early.
Had another where I made a too deep and abrupt bottom turn thinking I'm gonna face plant right and brought my self out of that , maybe g r a c e f u l l y ? Huh?
Beautiful day...Beautiful place...Beautiful life.

Missed a Dawn Patrol today.... but I got some in the sun instead

#8 Wow after a tough week,,, yeah, they are all kinda tough work weeks these days,
I was looking forward to... well hoping for some good surf this weekend.
The weather 4 cast earlier this week wasn't so good with a lot of rain, but what DID happen was a lot on Friday then at 0600 it was clear as a bell with stars and COLD air. 37 Degrees, surprising right after a rain, but I guess it hailed  in San Diego.
Pulled up to the Terramar and 2 Dawn patrol's were there Mike y Cruz.
Man it was super high tide but waves were breaking   there was just so much water moving all over the place and it just wasn't gonna happen. Wa wa waaaaaaaaaaa, ( like the trombone sound, ya know?)

Left to go home in time to see my sweetheart head off to LA for a couple days.

 Got Bummed out so I watched a surf movie , "words" my favorite,  So all stoked up and buddy Dave talked me back out at 1 pm.
Sunny, GLASS, and NOBODY out, save a dude that paddled thru, laughing it up as the fatties rolled under us. 
Nobody was there.....  PERFECT really !! Big fat peaky ones were out there,  the kind you you laugh at when they come at ya.  The kind ya don't want to F@^k up, waves could have had a bit more shoulder but some big tall walls and nice memorable drops were had>The paddle back out was hard and frothy as the waves kept on coming but worth it
I am dropping pounds now and I am going to reward myself with new gear.
A new wet suit or so and a board maybe 2. Gonna get me some new trunks too, maybe some flower print jams or some Greg Nolls  ha ha ha.

Any ways a good day..... thanks God thanks Mother thanks Dave I needed that one.
On a different note I forgot to take my deceased father in laws ( cheap but sentimental ) watch of and it filled with the ocean in 10 minutes flat,,,  Ah well  G-Pa got to surf with me today I guess
Im sure he would have enjoyed that

Ahhhh......Just go out for a paddle....

#6
Just go for paddle is what I say when the surf is small and its still glassy and nice conditions...just like today.

That way if that's all ya get then your expectations are met.
Kinda like your there, it's not howling or anything, so you just go.
So, out of 5 or so Terramartian dawn patroler's on the cliff this morning, Mike and I go for a paddle into the coldish, flat, 0630am glassiness as the sit it out.
Oh yeah, super hot  sunrise in the east today. Nice laughs on the cliff as well.
Stretched and paddled out.
Waited for a short bit at houses with nuthin'
 then decided to "paddle" some more towards the empty (never) reef.
 Got to the reef and a couple a waves showed and bingo, a couple of waves were had.
It was so rare to have me and another and the reef all to ourselves.
Got a left ot two  and a couple rights... nothing spectacular, but non-the-less, remarkable enough.

The promise of a big swell tomorrow is on every ones mind,
 I'm hoping for 4-5 foot dawn patrol in the glass...

sweet dreams Billy boy, sweet dreams !