Friday at the Doctor's at 0730 then... Made a crummy day a great one !
End of February 78 degrees, sun, glass, waves, convertible.Fun !
How often can I surf ALONE in the middle of a lot of waves and grab ,I don't know, 20 hand picked waves?
Practically never !
Rights, lefts, close outs, speed glides, turns new moves are coming, good stuff.
Great session.
Now everything hurts.
It will be the way things are for me, I suppose, to a degree.
Whatever.
Nice day I'm STOKED
STOKED
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