Terramar

Sunday, February 17, 2013

Things are g o o d... Surfing is changing a little THANK GOD

#'s 9 and 10
Another fun filled week at work closes out, and the stoke begins to glow and grow.
Saturday... 530am forecast 1-2 feet.
Put on my new wetsuit at home
This  = "I'm goin' in", regardless of conditions,
loaded the board into the convertible and at 5:45 headed to Terramar.
Since I have kept my word to myself and lost some weight( 18lbs) I have been searching for, and found some new gear. So I get this EXCEL Infinity 3/2 in a"1 suit left"closeout clearance sale   $90.00. Boom ! Its a $270.00 suit.
So while I HATE having to wear one., it is making super early DP do-able. I love the warmth of my new wetsuit.....weird thing for me to use love and wetsuit in the same sentence, but anyways, I got stoked from a new piece of gear. Got to admit it is better being, well, not too cold, there.
So I get there at 6 and only 2 DPers there. Steve y Cruz
I spend 3 minutes on the cliff then go.
Small, glassy,cold knee highs
Steve leaves Cruz comes in. We get waves for an hour.

Sunday, 530am same weak forecast
Again suit up at home, this actually does 2 things.
Saves face while struggling to put on new suit and ensures I will paddle out despite small surf.
This is working very well for me.
This morning its Steve and Terry.
I spend another 5 minutes cliff side then go in.
 Alone.
 ALONE and this time there are a few set waves to shoulder and pure glass.
Beautiful, quiet, glassy, lonely waves and myself. Got a lot of waves this morning.
Maybe 5 or 6 before Terry came out.
Maybe 12 before Steve decided to go.
Had 2 rights that I surfed well on. Almost toes over and steering the board down the glassy line and face.
Saw Terry get a couple, we had a good talk out there too.
Steve got some, but it was best early.
Had another where I made a too deep and abrupt bottom turn thinking I'm gonna face plant right and brought my self out of that , maybe g r a c e f u l l y ? Huh?
Beautiful day...Beautiful place...Beautiful life.


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