Terramar

Saturday, February 09, 2013

Missed a Dawn Patrol today.... but I got some in the sun instead


#8 Wow after a tough week,,, yeah, they are all kinda tough work weeks these days,
I was looking forward to... well hoping for some good surf this weekend.
The weather 4 cast earlier this week wasn't so good with a lot of rain, but what DID happen was a lot on Friday then at 0600 it was clear as a bell with stars and COLD air. 37 Degrees, surprising right after a rain, but I guess it hailed  in San Diego.
Pulled up to the Terramar and 2 Dawn patrol's were there Mike y Cruz.
Man it was super high tide but waves were breaking   there was just so much water moving all over the place and it just wasn't gonna happen. Wa wa waaaaaaaaaaa, ( like the trombone sound, ya know?)

Left to go home in time to see my sweetheart head off to LA for a couple days.

 Got Bummed out so I watched a surf movie , "words" my favorite,  So all stoked up and buddy Dave talked me back out at 1 pm.
Sunny, GLASS, and NOBODY out, save a dude that paddled thru, laughing it up as the fatties rolled under us. 
Nobody was there.....  PERFECT really !! Big fat peaky ones were out there,  the kind you you laugh at when they come at ya.  The kind ya don't want to F@^k up, waves could have had a bit more shoulder but some big tall walls and nice memorable drops were had>The paddle back out was hard and frothy as the waves kept on coming but worth it
I am dropping pounds now and I am going to reward myself with new gear.
A new wet suit or so and a board maybe 2. Gonna get me some new trunks too, maybe some flower print jams or some Greg Nolls  ha ha ha.

Any ways a good day..... thanks God thanks Mother thanks Dave I needed that one.
On a different note I forgot to take my deceased father in laws ( cheap but sentimental ) watch of and it filled with the ocean in 10 minutes flat,,,  Ah well  G-Pa got to surf with me today I guess
Im sure he would have enjoyed that

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Nice -- where were you Sunday morning? It was cold baby. glad you got some wave this weekend. I want to borrow that movie some weekend.

Terry

christian said...

I remember paddle outs like that when I was a grom. On some days, you'd duck a wave, but then get pulled back over the falls on account of being a mere 130 pounds. These days I think I'd just have a heart attack and wash up on the beach like a sick, gasping sea lion.