#10
3RD day of a long weekend and the weather went from Offshore and 78 to still and 58 degrees.
Glassy and overcast. Kinda messy on the inside and peaky walls with occasion shoulders.
Dawn patrol cadet Froelich shows up late, about 30 minutes, but for the 3rd day in a row is pre-suited up to prevent any 2nd thoughts when arriving at the beach. Got there ready to surf and maybe repeat a couple of new moves I started the day before...notably a front side, drop knee right turn.
Mike and I get in the water and were virtually alone for a good while.
I am not getting into waves as easily as the last 2 days but I do get a few and enjoyed the surf .
It was a bit tide(y) for the swell.
I am making a change in my front side(regular)turn and it is getting me fired up. Hope to keep it going.
I think it was getting better as I exited, with the dropping tide from 3 feet down to 1 foot.
Warm waters was going off nicely....all those shrimpy boards everywhere though, uggh. LoL
Terramar.
I love looking at it.
I love dreaming on it.
I love surfing on it.
Surf goooooood !
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment