The locals are back

Photos courtesy of Ted, thats TerraMar Ted, a surf bro.

Are you a "Tube Dodger"? He's NOT

Find yourelf dodging the occasional tube? I certainly hope not !! But if you do...
Watch and enjoy.... by clicking the link below

http://www.surfline.com/video/video_player/video_player_640.cfm?id=5863

Remember Big Wednesday "05" ?

This is a series of great photos from So Cal. on that wonderful, wonderful day.
Scroll through them all and check the comments
Really priceless memories and laughs. Enjoy !!
http://photos.signonsandiego.com/gallery1.5/sdbigwaves/SMHbigsurf250296x005

Saturday 5/19/07 Thanks Doc

Went out this morning to keep my arms and spirit in shape, just to spend some time in the water.
I am used to going out 4 to 6times a week now,
2-weekend DP's, and the rest after work sessions.
Last time out was Monday. S u r p r i s e ! ! !
This morning I expected glass, fog, semi cold red tide water, and ZERO waves. I showed later than usual and found lots of the regulars standing on the cliff. I deliberately put my wetsuit on at home so I wouldn't back out of going in for lack of waves. I parked and ran to the water without looking at the conditions.
Well it was small, but there were waves. I probably stood 15-20 times in my 2 hours and 6-8 of those were full and satisfying rides. JUST WHAT THE DOCTOR ORDERED !!
Going out again tomorrow and really looking forward to the next predicted SSW
and a loooooong
5 day weekend starting this Thursday
surf on....

S u r p r i s e ! ! !

Wow...I know I didn't expect to see any real waves today, but.....SURPRISE

0630 am glassy,gray,cooler,no winds, peaks, some shoulders, nice drops, few people.

Surfed with Chuck today( below, in the wet suit) which is always a treat. Man that guy can hunt down the hot spots @ Terra mar. Chuck is always funny, fun to hang with, and a good surfer. I always learn when I watch him.
Good day today. Yesterday was a paddle out for a fallen surfer who passed on from a type of lymphoma @ 42 years old........

Surf hard, well, and often. Do something fun each day.
Surf on....

Took it All off

Monday night the suit came off in the last 45 min.
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
Cool Rides
Ted ( lives in a line-up house ) cranked up the beach boy tunes,
we sang the Sun to sleep.
Tuesday night, surfing Son Jason and I, in @ 4pm ish
trunks only ! ! ! !
PERFECT WEATHER
GLASS
some GOOD WAVES and SWEET RIDES
Good VIBES
GREAT TIMES....... SUMMER IS SO CLOSE NOW



surf on.......suit off.......

I WANT TO TAKE OFF MY SUIT

Today SUNDAY was almost summer like. ( took this shot @ Wind N' Sea today)

Medium, semi off shore winds slapping spray in the face. Blowing my SON and I south. Some pretty good waves coming Thur @ T-Mar.
Jason got a few goodies, so did I, but also got 2 late drops and consequent kook bottom turns, which I did recover from nicely and actually squeezed out pretty fair rides ( improving :) )

It's always GREAT to SURF WITH MY SON.

I went in without boots ( my feet always get cold ).
Boots off was good.....
Now I want the damn suit off...it gets so old. It's so constrictive, restrictive, and de-sensitizing.
Its like a full body condom.........

I Saw Wind and Sea today......what a beautiful beach and wave.

I'm going to take a surf trip there before summer break and the mega crowds that
I'm sure must be there...maybe a mid-weeker.

Gonna make the cover of ALMOST magazine

felt like this dude today.... kinda.
(pic. I took on "big wed" 2005 TerraMar/Igors reef)

Got out there @ 6:15am Got a few, nice drops, some shoulders, almost tubed, then as soon as the "apostles" lined up on the cliff, sipping java and taking it in, I turned to mush. Almost made some hell-drops, almost did a great roundhouse, almost made a stellar left turn, a l m o s t.
I did however complete a perfect and spectacular over the nose pearl......

Still it was great to get out, man, it seems if I don't get at least 3-4 sessions per week( 7 day period)
I GET VERY VERY FUNKY ! !

Soooooooo it was good.
thinking Sunday will be considerably better weather, form, and speed.

surf on....