Weekend update

Saturday

Nada, zero, zilch, nothing.
There at 6am, looked 40 min. for a sign of rideable waves, saw none and split.
A drag, as I was still buzzin' from Friday's rekindled stoke.

Sunday

Scarce, rare, lean, and far between.
There at 6am, saw a few, WarmWaters looked like something was happening, but I chose to surf alone and south.
Caught one pretty quick. It was good enough to bring a couple surfers CLOSER to me, bah.
However on my next ride I got covered ! !
I wasn't expecting that. First time I think.
Dropped in on a left that came slightly outside and was riding low in the wave. I thought, "I'm not gonna make the section", so I tucked and stuck it out.
Then just when I thought I had made the section, I felt the thin lip of the wave hitting my back and outside shoulder and could hear it as well. I noticed the curl of the wave just in front of my face and the steepness of the small shoulder past that.
Cool, very cool. It's a step forward for sure. There is so much I look forward to with surfing.

surf on......

Bingo, BINGO ! I got B I N G O ! ! ! !

This Pic is of my Son on the cliff @ TerraMar
This story is about him really and what he does for his very proud Dad.

Finally, I got some of what I needed, whew ! I have been in a surf funk.
Tonight my son kinda talked me into going after work, I was going to repeat recent history and blow it off and then the little light came on and shone through." Don't do that again Bill, remember how you felt when you blew him off last time ?"
We went to our break and the line up was clogged on the inside with grommets on the short stuff. My immediate inclination was to go north or south of the crowd (packed paddle paranoia), then the little light came on again and shone through "Let your son choose, he is not in the funk you are in. "
I paddled out directly into the crowd, following my Son.
I turned on the first wave immediately, stood, stood down would be hoppers(2), and cut back on the snake(1), turned again and stepped to the nose arched back and rode.......ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !

Got another 8-10 nice outsiders. Took "my" waves appropriately and came out cleansed and re-born from the funky monkey week of , well.... crap everything.
Thank you SON, you are my little light when things go dark, I did see it and follow it this time.

surf on.......

Yes....we went out today, a little guilty, a little NOT

Despite the fire situation, my son snuck out at 2-3 this afternoon.
He reports B A M ! ! !
Way, way outside fatso's , on the big board. Just what he needed after 3 weeks-o-nuthin.
He rated his session as one his of top ten surf's. Probably an 8

I got out for 1 hour about 5 pm caught 2 good waves ( not the waves of the day ) There were of course outrages Santa Ana offshores, smoke, and coughing on the paddle out .
I rate mine a 3.75
I want an additional 4.25 added to that. S o o n Please.


surf on.........

Would'a, Should'a, Could'a ,I got work to do

Friday, my son Jason says hey lets go. Well..."it's already 415 pm, the sun will be in our eyes, the internet cam doesn't LOOK that good, my back is a litttle sore and I want the epidural I got the day before to have a chance" etc., etc., etc.
So I talk us out of it. Why, why would I (<==== DUMB ) bail on any session with my son ? MiStAkE ! I missed time with with son. Friends and cohorts claim near EPIC for Friday eve.
Saturday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and miss the best part of the morning according to the line up. Tough paddle out and some late drop fat ones. Got a small handful and was satisfied. As I was leaving the tide was changing and I suspect it got better.
Sunday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and I wait until 9am so the tide can start to drop. Jason and I go and its tough paddle out with strong southern current. Oh there are big ones out there but hard to get unless perfectly in "the" spot for the peak and a paddle battle to get the drop. Then its all do it right and get out clean OR ELSE boooooom !
Jason 2.......Dad 1...... got home and looked at "surfshot".com and the pictures from dawn patrol showed incredible waves at the break of dawn.
MY HEAD, MY TIMING, and MY INSTINCTS are in need of an adjustment.
post script
I will make repair now.
1) Dominate at work so as to get out earlier for more late afternoon sessions.
2) Lose the 20 lbs. I've managed to gain back and get a new wet suit upon reaching that goal.
3) Never turn down an offer to surf it up with my son.
4) Get a little more confident so I don't shy from a paddle battle to get the waves.

surf on ..........................

Wrong board-wrong tide oh well, trust yer instincts is the lesson I will take home.

This morning I arrived about a half hour later than I should have.
T-Mar WAS breaking but...... fatties lookin to break then shrinking until a little too close on the inside for a 10 ft. + board.
.
"TerraMirage" or "TerraMush" as some have said. I knew I should have brought my cali-classic Chris Slick with a trifin set up.....damn.!

Well I did my best (probably) and really got about 5 decent rides in 2 hours. I just cant take off REAL LATE on that board. The tide came up fast and killed it.

still stoked, as always, and thankful to the powers that be for giving this gift to my son and I.
Maybe I'll go back out now with a different board and a DIFFERENT TIDE.
Surf on, and on, and on.

Saturday I came, I saw, I went, IT was GOOD? ? ? !

Friday looked awful on the surfline Tamarack Cam ( just up the road from where I generally surf ). Saturdays cam 615am, showed a little better. At 430am Saturday I finished watching this Machado interview www.surfline.com/video/going_off/ video,
so I went EXPECTING CRAP up front. Maybe some victory at sea, which I enjoyed last winter at times. 0,o
7am Saturday I paddle out through sorta big NNW wind swell. A four or five tier,
( whitewater steps ) paddle out with a strong south parallel pull. My first semi winter like swell TEST. Waves were about shoulder/head ht. on the takeoff peaks, maybe 3-5 seconds apart on the sets and those in between. Warm water still.
After getting outside, I sat catching my breath, then turned on one, had a late great drop and an adrenaline pumping right. Because I thought it was gonna be crap so I let my wife a note saying I would be home by 830. Well stayed in til 10 am, had a few really great rides
I always have a good-great time "going", close to 200 times since Jan.
Glad I went......
As I write this on Sunday Am at 5 am Im goin again EXPECTING CRAP.

surf on

fire it up