Friday, my son Jason says hey lets go. Well..."it's already 415 pm, the sun will be in our eyes, the internet cam doesn't LOOK that good, my back is a litttle sore and I want the epidural I got the day before to have a chance" etc., etc., etc.
So I talk us out of it. Why, why would I (<==== DUMB ) bail on any session with my son ? MiStAkE ! I missed time with with son. Friends and cohorts claim near EPIC for Friday eve.
Saturday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and miss the best part of the morning according to the line up. Tough paddle out and some late drop fat ones. Got a small handful and was satisfied. As I was leaving the tide was changing and I suspect it got better.
Sunday, I, who wakes at 5 am, doink around until 7 and I wait until 9am so the tide can start to drop. Jason and I go and its tough paddle out with strong southern current. Oh there are big ones out there but hard to get unless perfectly in "the" spot for the peak and a paddle battle to get the drop. Then its all do it right and get out clean OR ELSE boooooom !
Jason 2.......Dad 1...... got home and looked at "surfshot".com and the pictures from dawn patrol showed incredible waves at the break of dawn.
MY HEAD, MY TIMING, and MY INSTINCTS are in need of an adjustment.
post script
I will make repair now.
1) Dominate at work so as to get out earlier for more late afternoon sessions.
2) Lose the 20 lbs. I've managed to gain back and get a new wet suit upon reaching that goal.
3) Never turn down an offer to surf it up with my son.
4) Get a little more confident so I don't shy from a paddle battle to get the waves.
surf on ..........................
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